Quote:
Originally Posted by testerdahl
Thanks! That is a very thorough response. Supposed to be nearly 60 here tomorrow, I'm going to spend most of my day working on it. There are only 3 parts and like 4 wires. I have to be able to figure that out.
BTW, if you have a minute, any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong with the key? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMlCHFoUndg
Oddest thing I've experienced trying to get it out. |
You're welcome. Yeah, luckily there aren't a whole lot of different parts & wires to deal with. One thing I forgot to mention earlier is the bulkhead connectors. These are the connectors on the firewall where the wiring passes through from the engine compartment to the cab. Both the red feed wire from the battery and the purple starter solenoid wire pass through these connectors. So those are definitely a place you'll want to check for potential poor connections.
Unless I'm missing something, what you're seeing with the key switch might be normal. These older switches are a bit different than the ones found in newer vehicles when it comes to the positions where you can & can not remove the key.
I just checked a spare one I had handy to refresh my memory. On this one, the key can be removed in the "lock", "run", and "start" positions. It can not be removed in the "accessory" or "off" positions. And if you remove the key while it's in the "run" position, the switch can still be turned (without the key) between the "off", "run", and "start" positions. It won't go back to "lock" or "accessory" without re-inserting the key.