Thread: S10 Swap how to
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:42 PM   #22
skymangs
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Warrensburg, MO
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Once you've scribed your lines on the frame, go ahead and TACK your cab stands in place. I say TACK because if you seam weld them, inevitably you will have screwed something up, and have to cut and move them. I generally do 6 tack welds per stand, 4 on the top (of the frame rail) and 2 near the bottom of the stand. you need to be sure you get enough weld to handle the weight of the cab.

Next set the cab on, I use 1/2" x4.5" bolts for the front, and 1/2" x 4" bolts for the rear (51-54 cabs need 4.5" bolts front and rear). Use the 2 front bolts to center the cab.

On the 47-54 cabs, you will need to drill a 1/2" hole for the new mounts. I drill a pilot (3/16") from underneath, using the stand/S10 cab mount to help me center it, then drill the remainder from inside the cab.

On the 51-54 cabs, your mount should align with the inner hole for the factory shackle mount. You will need to open this hole from 3/8" to 1/2".

I re-use the S10 convex washers and rubber isolators under the cab stand with 1/2" Nylock nuts.

On that note, I use lock-nuts on EVERYTHING when I put one of these together. Remember if it gets hot, use all steel (oval) locknuts
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