[LONGHAIR]

I am totally with TxFirefighter on this one, the hammer method works very well. Just remember to leave the nut on, loosened by several threads. If you totally remove the nut the spindle/upper a-arm assembly can jump off of the ball-joint stud. This can result in damage to the boot too.

Of course every TV show that I have ever seen uses the pickle fork method, either with a hammer or air-chisel. This is fine if you are replacing the ball-joint.....but not for general dis-assembly and re-assembly of the original parts. This method may also be perfered in the case of custom painted or plated/powder-coated parts.......I think you can still buy the grease boots seperate from the ball-joints, though it has been many years since I tried.

There should not be any tension on the spring when you lower the a-arm, it should drop far enough for the spring to just fall/roll out........be prepared and watch you feet. Newer trucks (or those with new/tight bushings) may require you to pry down a bit to get the spring to drop out....S-10s usually require this too.

The new (shortened) springs got back in just as easily. Just set them in place in the lower pocket and raise the jack. As the spring contacts the upper pocket give it a tug/jiggle to be sure that it seats properly and continue to raise it up to meet the spindle. If it is not centered you will hear/feel a nasty snap when it does pop in under tension.

After you are done installing the spring it is a good idea to make sure that there is some tension on the spring when the suspension is at full droop. (resting on the bump-stop) Execssively shortened springs will be loose especially if the bump-stop is worn or missing.