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Old 01-12-2017, 11:59 AM   #133
rustyburbin
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Riverside California
Posts: 8
Re: Eaton HO72/HO52 vs. 14 Bolt FF

I recently did mine. You'll need a dial indicator and regular set of wrenches. You can do it without pulling out the third member but it's probably better too, I did mine on the work bench. Either way you'll need to pull your axels and disconnect your drive shaft. Here's a short video that explains the basics... https://youtu.be/Ouq67Fyt5K8

Your HO52/72 doesn't have shims it has threaded bearing adjusters (that's not what they're called) which make it supper easy to work on but be sure not to loosen one side or the other to much while adjusting the backlash because you can loose your bearing preload... set up your dial indicator like on the video and if you need to tighten the you'll need to loosen the bearing adjuster on the passenger side first about a 1/4 turn and tighten the drivers side the same amount, check the dial and repeat as necessary. It's really not that hard. Oh yeah, loosen the bearing caps a little bit so things move freely. And don't forget to move the deflection pin in a little bit too. That's the little "bolt" with the jamb nut that's on the side of the case closer to the pinion, you see it when you get into the diff, it has a brass end that rides against the back side of the ring gear.
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1970 K20 suburban.
ZZ4 350 - 4l80e - 203 / 205 doubler.
Long travel Deavers with king shocks and bumps.
Detroit in back, Eaton E-locker up front with crossover & hysteer.
Plus 5 kids a wife and a dog!
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