Quote:
Originally Posted by VetteVet
Andy's right about the plug, but if you are melting wires then you are pulling too much current through them. If you have relays and the ignition switch wires are actuating the relays, you should not be pulling very much current through them.
The large red wire is the ignition feed wire and the pink wire feeds the ignition coil, the fuse panel, and the gauge cluster.It feeds the key on circuits and the large red wire feeds the fuse panel for the constant on circuits, hazards, brakes, front parking lights, taillights, dome lights and cigarette lighter. It also feeds the headlight switch.
The large brown wire on the key is the accessory feed and it powers the rest of the fuse panel, wipers, turn signals, and the heater switch.
You should have a main wiring junction in the engine compartment where the battery, alternator, cab feed wire, and the cooling fans tie together. You should feed the PCM relay, the fuel pump relay, and the cooling fan(s)relay from here.
Then the key switch pink wire will control these relays whe the key is on.
Here is a complete diagram on the 67 to 72 trucks stock from the factory.
It's the second post in the thread.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...185856&page=13 |
Quote:
Originally Posted by VetteVet
I'll assume that you have converted the alternator to either the SI or CS system to provide more current for the truck wiring. If so then you definitely need the main junction in the engine compartment.
If you want to use the original battery gauge then you have to wire it similarly to the stock system.
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Thanks for the info. That diagram helped a lot. I looked at it 100 times this weekend probably. So I did wire in a new ignition pigtail I got from Brothers. The only thing different was that my stock pigtail didn't have the large brown wire on it, only the small solid strand brown/white wire. (My truck originally was a 250/3speed with the 3 hole cluster) On the new pigtail, I just didn't wire anything to the large brown wire.
What I am still a little confused on is what is pulling so much current that its melting the pink and red wires. I wouldn't think it would be anything on my motor harness, since its running 3 relays and 8 individual fuses for all those electronics.
My stock fuse block isn't running much extra stuff either. I have the radio and cigarette lighter tied together and running off the radio terminal. I have my TCC switch running off one of the unfused ignition terminals and I then have my OBD2 port (with Gauge Reader), SES light, and a Autometer 3-pod mechanical gauge set running off the other unfused ignition terminal.
Should I pull all that off the stock fuse block on run a new power wire from the battery with relays/fuses? What else should I check? (I really hate wiring....) I also thought about adding a circuit breaker to the main feed off the battery and getting rid of that fusible link wire before the junction block. Is this a good idea and if so, what size circuit breaker would be good?
I am running just a single wire alternator too.