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Old 12-11-2017, 03:20 PM   #19
Dieselwrencher
6>8 Plugless........
 
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Prairie City, Ia
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Re: Cummins swap, I know there is a search button but the info is burried in many thr

Quote:
Originally Posted by randy500 View Post
Have some turbo questions....
Clearly my engine is not running at its potential, i haven’t run it hard because there is no heater so the windows are always foggy and there is no power steering.

Has great power till about 21 or 2200 rpm, makes about 17lbs of boost in that range and before. Maybe it makes more boost and more power at higher rpm, I don’t know because I’ve only driven it on side streets and the foggy window provlem.

I looked in the cold side of the turbo and the blades are full of nicks, the outer edge appears to be worn, it’s dirty and there is some play side to side. I haven’t looked at the hot side yet.

Should I rebuild this turbo with a new shaft and wheels?
Is the core usually rebuildable?
Should I buy a new center section already assembled?
Or is the condition Normal for used and should I just run it like it is?

Another thing, how hard is it to remove the injectors and what does it cost for new seals etc, if I do that?
I have the $900 OTC diesel injector tester, I was considering pulling the injectors to check the condition while I have the engine out. Does anyone know if the Cummins injector will screw into he OTC tester without an adapter? I only used it once on some injectors from a sailboat, unsure of what engine was in the sailboat,
Randy, it sounds like you will need a rebuild kit and a compressor wheel. Nicks are no bueno. 17psi sounds about how much boost those make stock.

You can really sink a lot of money into a torn up turbo in a hurry if you aren't careful. Most places on the net are pushing China parts too and it's hard to know what you're getting. I've been putting a lot of these on trucks for guys lately with great luck. I am a dealer for them as well. Between the price of a turbine, comp wheel, rebuild kit, and the time of removing broken bolts from the exhaust housing, a rebuilt turbo is the way to go IMO.

https://areadieselservice.com/diesel...oduct/70-4005/

There are several different aftermarket ones but are more money and you don't really need one if you don't plan to make over 400hp.

The injectors aren't bad to remove. They can be stuck in the head. You can make your own puller with a short piece of tube, and a lug nut from a srw 94-02 dodge. Here's a link to a new one.

https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-pr...or-puller.html

I have the snap-on one that has different ends. This won't work on cylinders 5 and 6 though due to the cowl over hang.

To remove the injectors, you just remove the injection lines, return line, and then use a 15/16" socket to remove or loosen the hold down nut. Then pull the injectors out.

You'll probably need an adapter for the OTC tester. Did yours only come with one line?

The sealing washers vary on price. If you did have a 215 they are a thin washer. I can get you a price on injectors and any cummins parts you need too. Or, Puredieselpower is a great source as well.
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Ryan
1972 Chevy Longhorn K30 Cheyenne Super, 359 Inline 6 cylinder, Auto Trans, Tilt, Diesel Tach/Vach, Buckets, Rare Rear 4-link and air ride option Build Thread
1972 GMC Sierra Grande Longhorn 4x4
1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20 Long Step side tilt, tach, tow hooks, AC, 350 4 speed
1972 C10 Suburban Custom Deluxe
1969 Chevy milk truck
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR STG3 Cam Super T10
1940 Ford 354 Hemi 46RH Ford 9" on air ride huge project


Tired of spark plugs? Check this out.

Last edited by Dieselwrencher; 12-11-2017 at 03:30 PM.
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