[6 Door King]

As a body man I agree to go the petina look and try to convince the wife you are saving money, because you will be truthfully. ANY product applied over the peeling/cracked/damaged paint will add labor hours to a finished paint job. Another point to make is that rattle can and other non auto paints tend to gum up sand paper rather than sanding off easily. They can also produce horrible reactions with other paint products, bubbling, peeling, fish eyes and blushing can occur. Wax is very hard to remove, but can be done, and a reputable shop should use a degreasing process before any painting begins. A rust convertor can be used in scratches or seams, and will cause the rust to harden and should seal it, in prep for later work. Almost all primers are useless for sealing out water, even if the substrate has not been opened by sanding. I have seen cars that were primed, and never exposed to direct moisture that rusted due to only humid air. So expecting primer to stand up to rain or road grime is unwise, and may lead to nice rust bubbles under your shiny new paint.