Quote:
Originally Posted by highwinger
So, I finally got all the pieces needed to replace the vent window weather stripping...which took three attempts after watching the videos: 1) got the rubber (Brothers P/N VWW0072 which I expect is Precision), 2) noticed the repair kit is needed for the rivets & tools (rivet & plastic w/s tool) (from LMC). 3) noticed the window channel felt needed replacing, or at least it's a convenient time to replace (45min drive to Ecklers).
I had a hard time getting the assy out. Another thread showed the proper angle (vent perpendicular & inward), but none of the videos or pics included the window belts (horizontal felt/rubber). Unfortunately, I cracked my window & scratched the tint & paint before pulling up the belts enough to pass the bracket...but it finally came out. Removing the rivets & the rubber went as expected.
The troubles started on the install. It appears some rubber has to be cut to install correctly; namely, around the pivot bracket pic#1 (not the spring which did need a flashing removed too). I think some trimming was needed at the junction between the two rubber pieces #2. I couldn't find any reference to needing this, but the rubber wouldn't seat properly until trimmed. Anyone else need this?
The real problem came in testing the tension on the vent window. I have to work the rubber around the window in the forward angle #3 and move the upper part of the window forward #4 to get the window to close. I think the rubber is still in the channel, but it doesn't really act that way. After installing back in the burb, I did have to reseat some rubber in the channel. Any way o fix?
Another question I have where the rubber goes on the outside. My other window has it inside the door, but that seems wrong. Why wouldn't the rubber sit on top of the door to keep (or limit) water & air from entering between the door & vent. I tried both ways & the rubber doesn't seat well to the door either. Actually, its sits weird when the rubber is reseated forward of the tension pivot point. It sits flatter when the rubber isn't in the channel. Can someone verify the rubber is supposed to go on top?
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OK, I will give this a try. It has been a while since I did mine and I am a two fingered typer with CRS, so bear with me.
I always completely remove the inner and outer window sweeps any time I remove the windows or wing vents. You will most likely mess them up when you remove them and will have to install new ones. Any time you need new ones don't use anything but these....
http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...ts/cr1103.html
http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...ts/cr1073.html
The only difference in the two sets is one is stainless and one is chrome plated stainless...
There may be other vendors on here that sell the same brand (I hope they post up if they do) but I think the manufacturer is pretty selective who they let distribute the product.
These are the best window felts/sweeps I have found. Made in the USA by Clark Industries, Pearcy, AR and go by the "Repops" brand. (Picture below)
First, I don't remember having to trim anything on mine. When you put them back together you have to make sure that the rubber is all the way down in the channel of the vent frame. I had to push mine down in with a dull putty knife and a wide blade screwdriver while using some soapy water. If the rubber is not seated in the channel it will hold the vent window too far back and that is what makes your door window roll up hard. The rubber goes down inside the door frame, not on top.
When you install the new door glass fuzzy in the long vent window channel make sure you nave all of the old fuzzy peeled out and scraped down good. You can leave the stainless trim on the top edges.
If you have everything installed correctly and seated good the vent window will be a little tight when you close it but you shouldn't have to use a lot of force on it.
Let me know if I missed anything....
LockDoc