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gringoloco · 11-01-2007, 01:36 PM

First order of business was to tear out the tonneau cover out back and get rid of the rear suspension so I could have some space to work. I also did some measuring to see how low I could get with the bags in the stock location and still keep the back seat. I determined that to get where I wanted to be, I would need more than a 2" block and the floor needed to get out of the way.

Edit: Don't mind that rusty crossmember- it's just temp installed. It will get blasted and painted or powder coated like everything else...

11-01-2007, 01:36 PM	#4
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,920	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer... First order of business was to tear out the tonneau cover out back and get rid of the rear suspension so I could have some space to work. I also did some measuring to see how low I could get with the bags in the stock location and still keep the back seat. I determined that to get where I wanted to be, I would need more than a 2" block and the floor needed to get out of the way. Edit: Don't mind that rusty crossmember- it's just temp installed. It will get blasted and painted or powder coated like everything else... Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy Last edited by gringoloco; 11-01-2007 at 01:38 PM.