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Old 03-23-2017, 11:28 PM   #18
rickpilgrim
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Wausau, WI
Posts: 591
Re: Going backwards from 98 K2500 to 92 K2500

Here's a few pics of the good side. As always we did this on a budget and so when getting new front fenders the drivers side is a Tony Yang capa certified from Amazon for less than $60.00. Fit/finish was perfect and wipe/sand with 220/400 grit/prime sand with 600 grit and paint.
The passenger side was from ebay and a bit less than $70.00. It had no name on box, an oil stained and unreadable paper stuffed in it, required some sloting of bolt holes and a bit of tweaking but ended up looking ok. Did the degrease/wax remove thing and sand and paint. Runs and sags everywhere and after a day in our 70 degree shop you could take a rag and wipe the paint off in sheets like food wrap. Re cleaned it with lots of lacquer thinner and heat gun to dry it, wait 2 hrs to be sure and 400 grit again and prime. Fish eyes and star shaped cracks everywhere, wait 2 more hours and wipe off primer with shop rag again.
Really p-off out comes the 40 grit and take it down to bare metal, work back to 400 and pre clean and primer again. This time primer sticks good everywhere except the edges. Send a quick e-mail to eBay seller with the wtf speech and today a reply.
"Seeing our fenders are made overseas a anti corrosion oil it bolt in the coating a sprayed over the entire fender. The instructions clearly state you should immerse the entire fender in a heated degreasing vat to remove all shipping oil and use a rust inhibiting oil based primer/sealer prior to painting. We are sorry you are having these difficulties and will gladly replace the part if you wish"
Of course I had taken it off and sandblasted it already and now primer sticks.
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