Oh well dont need brake lights anymore cause I just broke off the brake pedal assembly.... can you say MAJOR SETBACK!!!! --- this thing is ready to run! and no brakes!!!
Remember this custom thing I made out of a Wilwood multi-res assembly to go under my floor?
Well I just snapped the end of that long 1/2" bolt off that pushed the ram into the booster. I guess Im just gonna have to take the whole thing out and start over with a different idea.... tear up the firewall again and weld in
some type of STANDARD brake pedal assembly like regular "white-folk" do..... instead of this redneck backyard mechanic stuff!
oh well.... thank God - good thing it happened now instead of out on the street!!!!
I need a vacation --- think I'll go to Florida!
Okay so this is what I essentially made (from scratch)
This is an $80 Porsche clutch lever.....
I used just a 1/2"-13 Bolt black steel and then I had to drill and thread 1/4-20 "pins" on either end for the pedal and the lever. So I removed 50% of the bolt material on both ends
and thats why it failed right at the 1/4" threaded hole on the lever end.
So my question is; - the Porsche lever looks like its just mild steel with a lever welded onto the end - I can't weld the ends on becasue then I can't assemble it under the cab with the trans and everything in the way. It has to be a long rod, slid though the holes and the pedal and then the lever slides onto the end and is sandwiched with locknuts. But the pedal and lever need to be pinned somehow. Drift pins...cannot get a hammer up in there and once in you'll never get them back out. I dont wan it to have any slop either....
Would drill rod material be stronger for threading away 50% of the material? I already tried smaller bolt pins (10.32) and they snapped them right off.