Quote:
Originally Posted by Metalaroundstone
I also have the original ammeter in my truck. Would you mind providing more detail on how to wire the couple of 4 amp fuses? It sounds like something I should also do to AVOID smoke under the dash. Thanks
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For 1964 through 1966 Chevy, the battery side of the ammeter is connected to the large BATT stud on the starter solenoid with a black wire (about 18 or 20 gauge if I remember correctly). That wire runs inside the engine harness until it reaches the 6-cavity bulkhead connector plug on the firewall (just above & off to the passenger side of the engine). You'll want to place one of the 4 amp inline fuses in this black wire. The ideal location would be down near the starter solenoid (to protect the entire length of the wire). But it isn't always easy to place a fuse holder down there so you might have to place it farther up the wire (closer to the firewall plug). That location will still provide protection to the meter and the wire inside the cab.
The alternator side of the ammeter is connected to the 2-screw terminal buss bar that is part of the factory horn relay. There will be several larger (12 gauge or so) wires connected to these terminals along with one smaller (18 or 20 gauge) black wire with a white stripe that goes to the ammeter. You'll want to place the other 4 amp inline fuse in this black wire with the white stripe. Locate the fuse on the end of the wire close to the horn relay.
If you're going for an OEM factory look, you could salvage some fuse holders out of a 67 to 72 (or even 73 to 75) GM truck with an ammeter. But for functionality, most any inline fuse holder will work. They type that have rubber caps on them to keep out moisture & dirt are a good choice for in the engine compartment.
The 1963 ammeter setup is very similar to 64-66 described above except for the color code of the wire connecting the ammeter to the buss bar on the horn relay. It's red instead of black with a white stripe.
The 1961 & 1962 trucks originally had generators (instead of alternators) so they use the "B" terminal on the voltage regulator (instead of a buss bar on the horn relay) as the main power distribution point. The ammeter still ties into this point with a small red wire though (and this is the wire where you'd add the fuse). And according to the factory wiring diagrams, these years (61 & 62) did have a 3 amp inline fuse protecting the black wire that goes to the starter solenoid BATT terminal. I'm not sure why they eliminated that fuse for 63-66.
I don't have much info on the factory ammeters used in 1960. I think they might be the same as 61 & 62. But there is a possibility that they were the full-flow type (not external shunt) where all of the current goes through the meter movement. That type would be easy to recognize by the fairly heavy gauge wiring (probably around 12 gauge or so). That design would have to be protected with much larger fuses (or fusible links) instead of the small 3 or 4 amp fuses that can be used with the external shunt style meters.