Quote:
Originally Posted by VetteVet
You can try a simple test. Unplug the brown wire 12 gauge, at the fuse panel and the pink wire at the fuse panel
|
OK, just to be clear in order to do this I had to unbolt the fuse panel from the firewall and unplug both the thick pink wire and the thick brown wire from the back side of the fuse panel, by pulling off these 90* elbow looking connectors? Just for the record the pink wire Y's into the back of the fuse panel where I unplugged it and the other end of the Y goes to the bulk head connector on the firewall.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VetteVet
... and test for feedback voltage to the key by measuring the No. 1 pin wire with the key off for 12 volts. If you don't get it then your problem is downstream of the key switch.
|
OK, I did and I still have juice at No. 1, still getting voltage there, but... but... but... I don't believe my key is in the
OFF position, I think this ignition switch is so jacked that it is allowing me to pull the key out whilst it is turned all the way to the left (counter clockwise) to what would be the
Auxiliary position. So I turned the key one click over to the right, where I imagine the
OFF position would be, and whalla no voltage at the No. 1 Pin. Could this be it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by VetteVet
[I]The pink wire also has other connections that could provide feedback but the fuse panel is the main one. The orange wire on the fuse panel is hot all the time for the parking lights the stop lights and dome light, but the ignition should be hot
|
Did you mean to say "... but the ignition should not be hot" sorry for troubleshooting your troubleshooting, ha ha