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Old 09-10-2008, 03:58 PM   #1
Rokcrln
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Winters Ca. 95694
Posts: 4,843
LFD's 4dr Tahoe Build

LFD's
4Door Tahoe Build


OK so after a few months of running thru different ideas for a new shop truck the wife and I have decided on building the Burb for this vehicle. I am looking for a vehicle for towing our car trailer to shows as well as picking up and dropping off customer vehicles. We also wanted something to haul more people when we head to the shows that are out of town. Right now I use Low Buck for this but being a SWB standard cab it is hard to fit all three of in their and it is a bit rough towing with the WB. I was looking into finding a dually frame and building a 4dr crew cab. But the amount of time and money to do that just did not make sense when we have a rust free 3/4ton Burb sitting in the shop getting a 4th door added to it right now. So after convincing my wife that it would look great and tow well when finished so gave me the go ahead to build and keep it. No I am not whipped but we make all our business plans together and since she has stated on several occasions that she hates Burbs I just figured it was not worth even going their. But after describing to her my vision on the build she came to like it and thru in a few ideas of her own that we will work into the build.


Well here is the basic (or not so basic as this may seem) build plan. It will start off as a stock 3/4ton Burb and I plan on keeping it 3/4ton for the better brakes and other stronger components. It will get a few body mods like the addition of a 4th door, 12-18" removed out of the rear end with out changing the WB of the Burb. It will also get a 68 front clip with a few LFD touches as well as new rear tail lights. We both agree that the stock Burb lights just don't flow very well and we want to smooth out the over all look of this Burb. Their was a member on this site (now removed for what ever reason) who put lights in his Burb out of a newer SUV of some sort but I can't remember what they were from. I am sure someone here has pic's or info on what they were so feel free to post the info up. We are also looking into grafting on a new roof skin that would be a few inches shorter than the high crowned Burb roof and maybe even have a power sunroof as well. I will look into the larger SUV's and Vans to see if I can't come up with a nice ribbed roof that has a more pleasing look to it. I feel this will give the Burb a slimmer look with out taking away from the classic look of these vehicles. We will also mold in the cowl, shave the fire wall, add front and rear A/C and newer seats out of a Tahoe or something. We want buckets in the front with a center consul, a second row bench and if room allows a third row seat that can pop in and out. I am planning on a Porter Built DropMember for the front and a custom notch out back so we can drop this thing down a foot or so. It will not be set up to lay frame but a few inches up from their all the same. This will require a step notch out back (the reason their may not be room for a 3dr row seat) and new inner fenders front and rear. I will probably on run 17or 18's so I can still get an "E" rated tire for towing but I need to look more into that before we stick to one size. I have a 22k mile 05 DOD 5.3 Vortec with a 4L60 AOD that will be the main power for this ride.

Well this should give a good over view of what we have in store for this ride. When it is all said and done or real close to being done then Low Buck will go on the market to make room for it's replacement. So if you are looking to get a good deal on a custom C10 start saving your penny's.


OK for starters this was a $1500 rust free 72 Burb with new body mounts, cleaned and painted frame, fully rebuilt barn doors (including latches, hinges and door slided) with 3/4ton running gear. So the first plan of attack was to do a 4dr conversion to it. I started off by marking and removing the section were the 4th door will go.





Then came the fun part! Trying to recreate the passenger side B pillar but for the drivers side. I started by cutting up a nice but rusted California cab in order to get the jamb's of the truck B post to use as the C post of the Burb. I used the passenger side truck B post for the back side of the Burb's B post. Then I used a few more pieces of the cab to start the rest of the door opening.




I have made alto of templates from the passenger side post to help with the construction of the new drivers side B post. It is not real hard but it is very time consuming to get it just right. If you have ever really looked at the factory B post on a Burb's passenger side you will see just how involved it is and let me tell you every little notch, crease and indention is their for a reason. If you do not put them all in you will pay for it as you build the door and have to change things around to get it all to work just right.





Kevin
LFD Inc.

Last edited by Rokcrln; 12-31-2008 at 02:15 PM.
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