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ray_mcavoy · 12-03-2017, 07:22 PM

If you are able to get a correct reading on both tanks using a jumper wire in place of the selector switch, then it sounds like your original diagnosis of a bad switch is correct.

The selector switch has 2 sets of contacts inside. One set switches the gauge between the sending units while the other set of contacts operates the solenoid valve. So that would explain why your solenoid valve is still working okay.

As far as the wiring goes, the switch takes the tan wire from the gauge and switches it between either the tan/white or blue wire for the sending units. And it also takes the pink/black +12V feed from the fuse panel and connects it to the light green wire to power the solenoid and select the auxiliary tank. It leaves the green wire un-powered to select the production tank.

12-03-2017, 07:22 PM	#2
ray_mcavoy Registered User Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Sherman, ME Posts: 2,354	Re: Fuel gauge wire. If you are able to get a correct reading on both tanks using a jumper wire in place of the selector switch, then it sounds like your original diagnosis of a bad switch is correct. The selector switch has 2 sets of contacts inside. One set switches the gauge between the sending units while the other set of contacts operates the solenoid valve. So that would explain why your solenoid valve is still working okay. As far as the wiring goes, the switch takes the tan wire from the gauge and switches it between either the tan/white or blue wire for the sending units. And it also takes the pink/black +12V feed from the fuse panel and connects it to the light green wire to power the solenoid and select the auxiliary tank. It leaves the green wire un-powered to select the production tank. Last edited by ray_mcavoy; 12-03-2017 at 07:27 PM.