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1project2many · 08-11-2012, 01:53 AM

Howdy.

Solid axles can handle quite well. I've been involved with vintage race cars for a few years and those run dropped I beams all the time. If the roads where you are are fairly flat and aren't full of potholes then you don't benefit much from independent suspension. If you ride in a 90's Dodge 4wd or Jeep Cherokee you'll realize that solid axle trucks don't have to be a fight but they do have to be built correctly. Most of the stock '57 components are small by today's standards.

I run a stock chassis and for a few years before it was restored I used it as a driver that got rode hard. You'll want a front sway bar and a larger tie rod to begin with. I had a K10 Blazer tie rod turned to fit the stock rod ends at a machine shop because nothing larger was available at the time. I believe that CPP sells one now, machined and ready to install.

If you stick with stock sized tires the Pitman arm won't be too bad but if you go to something fat there will be quite a bit of flex as you turn the wheels. When I had my '55 back in the late '80s I was going to find a way to attach an arm from a 1 1/2 ton truck to fix that problem. I seem to remember the bolt centers were close but the larger truck parts used much larger attaching fasteners. I never finished the project and that was 20+ years ago. These days I've got a lot more experience and would probably be inclined to weld a supporting gusset across the Pitman arm. With your truck being lowered you might be looking at bending the arm to improve the drag link angle anyway so that would be a good time to add the gusset.

The stock steering box develops play in the output shaft bushings and you'll feel it when driving. It's easier to repair it now if you're keeping the stock box. IMO a better way is to use a Toyota power steering box from an '83 to '87 4X4 truck or 4runner. I've seen pictures of the install and I've had a box in my hand and it doesn't look like major surgery is required although it might get tricky if you keep the original column.

A steering damper might be nice. When I lived out west I never needed one but here on the east coast with the crazy drivers and narrow, rutted roads it's a big help. Mine's attached to the tie rod with a bracket I built that fits the I beam axle nicely. If you upgrade the box and other components you probably won't need the damper.

Stock drums can stop well for a short time but they are narrow and thin and will heat up and fade very quickly. Larger, finned aluminum drums can slow this but a ready made bolt on disc conversion is the best solution. "Back in the day" the swap was to use a late '60s fullsize Chevy rotor or drum because it fit the front spindle and came with a five lug pattern. There are kits available today with six lug rotors to go with those nice, new wheels.

When I put my truck together in '93 the Armstrong power steering and Brutus power brakes weren't such a big deal. These days my body complains that I should have replaced all the manual parts with power versions before the restoration every time I go driving. In fact all those years ago I had a seat that was not well aligned and ended up messing my one knee pretty badly muscling the truck through a nice, twisty road that required a lot of quick braking and hard steering. IMO if you're going to keep the truck, do the extra work for the power stuff now.

08-11-2012, 01:53 AM	#21
1project2many Registered User Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Lakes Region NH Posts: 3,154	Re: New member, old 57 3100 Howdy. Solid axles can handle quite well. I've been involved with vintage race cars for a few years and those run dropped I beams all the time. If the roads where you are are fairly flat and aren't full of potholes then you don't benefit much from independent suspension. If you ride in a 90's Dodge 4wd or Jeep Cherokee you'll realize that solid axle trucks don't have to be a fight but they do have to be built correctly. Most of the stock '57 components are small by today's standards. I run a stock chassis and for a few years before it was restored I used it as a driver that got rode hard. You'll want a front sway bar and a larger tie rod to begin with. I had a K10 Blazer tie rod turned to fit the stock rod ends at a machine shop because nothing larger was available at the time. I believe that CPP sells one now, machined and ready to install. If you stick with stock sized tires the Pitman arm won't be too bad but if you go to something fat there will be quite a bit of flex as you turn the wheels. When I had my '55 back in the late '80s I was going to find a way to attach an arm from a 1 1/2 ton truck to fix that problem. I seem to remember the bolt centers were close but the larger truck parts used much larger attaching fasteners. I never finished the project and that was 20+ years ago. These days I've got a lot more experience and would probably be inclined to weld a supporting gusset across the Pitman arm. With your truck being lowered you might be looking at bending the arm to improve the drag link angle anyway so that would be a good time to add the gusset. The stock steering box develops play in the output shaft bushings and you'll feel it when driving. It's easier to repair it now if you're keeping the stock box. IMO a better way is to use a Toyota power steering box from an '83 to '87 4X4 truck or 4runner. I've seen pictures of the install and I've had a box in my hand and it doesn't look like major surgery is required although it might get tricky if you keep the original column. A steering damper might be nice. When I lived out west I never needed one but here on the east coast with the crazy drivers and narrow, rutted roads it's a big help. Mine's attached to the tie rod with a bracket I built that fits the I beam axle nicely. If you upgrade the box and other components you probably won't need the damper. Stock drums can stop well for a short time but they are narrow and thin and will heat up and fade very quickly. Larger, finned aluminum drums can slow this but a ready made bolt on disc conversion is the best solution. "Back in the day" the swap was to use a late '60s fullsize Chevy rotor or drum because it fit the front spindle and came with a five lug pattern. There are kits available today with six lug rotors to go with those nice, new wheels. When I put my truck together in '93 the Armstrong power steering and Brutus power brakes weren't such a big deal. These days my body complains that I should have replaced all the manual parts with power versions before the restoration every time I go driving. In fact all those years ago I had a seat that was not well aligned and ended up messing my one knee pretty badly muscling the truck through a nice, twisty road that required a lot of quick braking and hard steering. IMO if you're going to keep the truck, do the extra work for the power stuff now.