What's up world, been hanging out in the garage a little bit. Had my thoughts on bending brake lines for some time now and finally got everything together to do it. Those who have entered this phase will know what I'm talking about... This is the point in time when you look at a critically acclaimed $250 double flaring tool with excellent reviews and a $30 double flaring tool that nobody seems to be able to get to work properly, and you just KNOW that the $250 one is the way to go...
But $250 is a lot of money! So the $30 will have to do!
Brake line necessities
After several double flare how-to videos and several practice tries I could get them somewhat consistent. Can't bleed the brakes yet so no idea if these are actually gonna work, but here we go
I chose not to run my fronts through the proportioning valve, but it seems that most people do?? I didn't see the reasoning, so I just plugged the ports on the valve. Somebody let me know if there's reasoning for me not to do so
Where the fronts split
Me trying to break the record for engine removal and installs in a single build
I thought the rear looked decent
I kept my the original tab for the brake like. Ordered a 24" brake line from summit. Probably could have gone 22" but oh well
I was planning on just reusing the brake lines that came with the rear end but they were seized into the flex brake line that I was having to replace, so I went for it. Is that spiral bound wire for vibration deadening or something? Slide it off the old ones and onto the new
Remote reservoir cap to top it all off
And there's the brake lines. Thanks for looking guys, catch you later