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**dmjlambert** · 05-07-2018, 10:14 PM

If you were using store-bought adapters such as one I gave the link to in post #2 of this thread, this would end up being your wiring:

You can follow the wires to see it is the same thing as this from VetteVet:

So get rid of the white and blue wires. Connect the red wire that was going to the regulator plug to the red wire on the 12SI plug instead. And connect the brown wire that was going to the regulator plug to the brown wire on the 12SI plug instead.

Run a 10 gauge red wire with a ring terminal from the alternator screw lug to your new terminal strip/fuse box. This is in addition to the 12 gauge red wire also connected to the alternator screw lug, that leads to your stock junction where the 5 wires are connected together. You can leave that stock junction alone, or if you really want you can connect those wires to your junction block, but then you may be adding fuses and the stock configuration doesn't have fuses...

Connect non-stock things you want to power such as your fans to one of the fused terminals on your terminal strip and plug in a 30 amp fuse.

Run a 10 gauge black wire with a ring terminal from the alternator ground lug to the same place your fans are grounded. That will give you a nice solid ground for your fans. This is in addition to the black wire that is also connected to the alternator ground lug.

One last thing, do you have a fusible link between the battery and the terminal block next to the battery? Or is it plain wire? You should have 6 to 9 inches of 16 gauge fusible link wire there. That fusible link protects the rest of the wiring in case you have a short somewhere, that fusible link wire will burn up before burning up some of your heavier gauge wires.

Do all this work with the negative lead of the battery disconnected, and when done and before you reconnect the negative lead, tap it to the battery post briefly and lightly to see if you get sparks, which would indicate a short. That is another VetteVet tip from over here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=763054

That's my 2 cents.

Less accurate diagram from first version of this post, disregard. I am unable to delete this attachment.

05-07-2018, 10:14 PM	#38
dmjlambert Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Cypress, TX Posts: 3,574	Re: Alternator question If you were using store-bought adapters such as one I gave the link to in post #2 of this thread, this would end up being your wiring: You can follow the wires to see it is the same thing as this from VetteVet: So get rid of the white and blue wires. Connect the red wire that was going to the regulator plug to the red wire on the 12SI plug instead. And connect the brown wire that was going to the regulator plug to the brown wire on the 12SI plug instead. Run a 10 gauge red wire with a ring terminal from the alternator screw lug to your new terminal strip/fuse box. This is in addition to the 12 gauge red wire also connected to the alternator screw lug, that leads to your stock junction where the 5 wires are connected together. You can leave that stock junction alone, or if you really want you can connect those wires to your junction block, but then you may be adding fuses and the stock configuration doesn't have fuses... Connect non-stock things you want to power such as your fans to one of the fused terminals on your terminal strip and plug in a 30 amp fuse. Run a 10 gauge black wire with a ring terminal from the alternator ground lug to the same place your fans are grounded. That will give you a nice solid ground for your fans. This is in addition to the black wire that is also connected to the alternator ground lug. One last thing, do you have a fusible link between the battery and the terminal block next to the battery? Or is it plain wire? You should have 6 to 9 inches of 16 gauge fusible link wire there. That fusible link protects the rest of the wiring in case you have a short somewhere, that fusible link wire will burn up before burning up some of your heavier gauge wires. Do all this work with the negative lead of the battery disconnected, and when done and before you reconnect the negative lead, tap it to the battery post briefly and lightly to see if you get sparks, which would indicate a short. That is another VetteVet tip from over here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=763054 That's my 2 cents. Less accurate diagram from first version of this post, disregard. I am unable to delete this attachment. Attached Images Last edited by dmjlambert; 09-11-2023 at 11:36 PM.