Quote:
Originally Posted by IronCanine
Mike I'm not sure I fully understand your problem, and I know you've had these things apart a couple of times, so I know you know what your doing... but I completely know how you feel. I fought my front axle at several spots. And it's only more frustrating when you've got your final finish on there. You're better than me, in that you powdered coated. All my axle bits are painted. Anyway, I fought the top ball joint adjusting sleeve. I couldn't get it torqued to spec without blowing it out the bottom (this may be what your saying). Then when I did get to the castle nut, it ended up well below the hole for the cotter pin. I put it together and took it apart a hand full of times. The two things that were really helpful to me were:
#1) This thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=430367&page=6 (you may already be aware of this one, but his final sequence of torquing things was very helpful to me, and what I used)
#2) I rolled the axle upside down. For some reason (probably gravity  ), it seemed easier to get the ball joint to bite in the taper, and the angles seemed easier to work with on the jack stands. I don't really see why it would make a difference but it did for us.
...none of this may help you at all...but at the very least, just know I feel your frustration...and your post allowed me to instantly re-live it. And you'll get it. Your will is stronger than the truck's. It has to be.
Edit: Corrected the link...the first showed the sequence, but his build thread has more info. |
Hey Brad, thanks a lot for sharing this. The same issue you had is the exact same for me. The spanner nut wants to push through past the threads in the housing.
Is post #144 in the thread the one you are talking about in reference to the sequence? I haven't tried this yet, but I think I'll give it a shot tomorrow after work.
Fortunately, the powder coat holds up well and I've managed to not chip it with all of the attempts I've made at it.