[ATVYP]

One last thing tonight. I wanted to run all the parts possible within the frame rails. I know many caution this, but if done right there is no problem. Roger Hogan's main advice was to either hide things or make them stand out. He has always given me great advice.

It took the majority of a full day's work and much time thinking, but I mounted the 2 residual valves back to back, and the proportioning valve behind. Getting the brake lines plumbed correctly, safely, and functionally was some work, but I think I got the job done!

If you are interested, the residual valves should be used when mounting the master cylinder low, like under the cab. You should run 2 psi for disc brakes, and 10 psi for drum brakes. This keeps the fluid from returning all into the master and then prevents a low brake pedal. The proportioning valve controls the delay of the rear brakes. 70% of the braking power is from the front brakes, and if not adjusted correctly the rear brakes won't do much or they will lock up too soon. I've seen lots of guys cut corners here, and I just don't feel that is wise. My proportioning valve also has a brake light switch in it. There are ups and downs to a pressure-controlled brake switch, but it will work well for my needs. The disadvantage is you must actually have brake line pressure to activate the lights, so tapping the pedal to knock off cruise isn't as easy. However, this way EVERYTHING is hidden and easy - no need for a complicated micro switch I have to mount somewhere and then repeatedly adjust. Pretty trick stuff.

It's a shame I don't have better pictures, and recent. I guess you can't ever take too many! I also have 2 DOT approved stainless brake hose that connect the pass-through connector in the boxing plate to the brake master. I'm still trying to figure out what thread / flare style a 93' Corvette brake master uses. I keep reading conflicting info, and I've ordered parts 3 times to no avail - but I guess practice makes perfect!