[HO455]

Today I removed the old rear brake lines. I found a smashed spot up where the front cross member and frame rail come together on the passenger side, the hard line above the pumpkin was rubbing the panhard bar,and the hose had several badly worn spots. (Photos 1&2) After some research I figured out why the rear hose is not correctly installed and just ty-rapped. When they swapped the six lugs out the PO took the brake lines and backing plates off of the 3:73 67 rear end and installed them on the 71-72 3:55 rear end. Which sounds great except for the mounting for the hose on the axle is completely different. The 67 Tee goes through a tab welded vertically to the upper rear part of the axle tube and is secured with a brake line clip. The 71-72 is secured by a 5/16" bolt through the Tee into a tab that is welded horizontally on the upper front of the housing. (Photo 3 which I stole from wpavlis here on the forum shows earlier 67 style. Photo 4 shows the 71-72 style on my axle along with a marvelous example of Ty-rapping and the hose that is ready to burst. The last photo shows the correct 71-72 hose). When I was trying to locate the correct 71-72 hose I learned that there are two versions for C10's one for leaf spring trucks that is 17" in overall length and one for coil spring trucks that is 20 1/4" overall length. Other differences are that on the early rear end the lines are 3/16" (7/16-24 flare nuts) from the Tee fitting to the wheel cylinders and the lines on the later one are 1/4" (3/8-24 flare nuts) from the Tee to the wheel cylinder. So to make my set up work I am running 3/16" tubing from the wheel cylinders to the Tee and then using 7/16-24 inverted flare nuts machined for 3/16" tubing. I had no problems getting the fittings local, but no one in town stocked the hose. Napa was the closest with a Friday noon delivery. The Napa part number I ordered is #36683 (Sure hope it's right). So when the hose arrives all that's left is to cut and flare the ends at the Tee. Blow the lines down and connect the new wheel cylinders and bleed. I didn't replace the lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve as the fittings going into the valve were frozen. I may try some soft heat on them to see if they will break free or I may just live with them for now. It just depends on how much I want another can of worms on my plate.
Oh and right off the get go I jack the WMB up and dive under it and one of the brand new KYB shocks is gushing oil out. Just %@*@#&$# wonderful! Only four miles on it.