[B1rdman]

I figured I owed an update here. Currently I am on a budget so I can't just go and through parts at my truck so I have to do things when I can here.

First when I said I cleaned the area around the IAC, It was the area in and around the TBI and not the IAC. If I was going to clean the IAC I would only use a non corrosive, non residue electronic component or tuner cleaner, it being a stepper motor.

Currently I do not have access to a scanner though I have a friend who can borrow one when he has a free day from his job. So until then I can not check IAC steps or the P/N switch.

CTS resistance reads where it is supposed to be IAW with temp versus resistance. from 30 to 210 degrees. I have checked this a couple of times now and it is pretty consistent.

I am trying to borrow from the same place as the scan tool, a fuel pressure test rig. I have two tanks and the truck would do the same thing on either tank(or fuel pump). I went ahead and changed the fuel filter since I had not done it in a few years and it is something you should change somewhat regularly.

One thing I did find was my TPS was set at .65 volts in idle position. One article I read for this particular truck and engine, the TPS should be .54 plus or minus .075 volts and over 4.0 at WOT and voltage reading need to be smooth and linear throughout operation. This means I was high about .035 volts or so at idle. I adjusted it to .55 in idle position and 4.2 at WOT position. In either case the voltage was smooth and linear.

I do not know how to test the distributor for magnetism loss with out replacing it but I did pop the cap off it and there is no play either up and down or side to side and no oil in it. I cleaned the cap and rotor contacts and put it back together(very minor build up). I checked the timing and it was about or even less a quarter of a degree advanced position and the light or mark stayed steady.

I pulled a few spark plugs to check them. Gaps were still perfect and the electrode were the perfect tan or light brown color. Every wire I tested was getting a lot of fire at the sparkplug. The motor runs smooth and strong throughout the rpm range.

I tried to test to see if my motors rpm at idle kicks up a little when I engaged the AC, but either I have a bad pressure switch on my Receiver/dryer or I am out of freon since my AC comp will not kick on.

I sprayed inj/carb cleaner around the injector where the shaft for the butterflys are and did not get any idle change while the engine, so they still seem pretty tight.

With all the little stuff I have done the problem still exists but is no where as bad. For small trips about town it did not die at all. The only time now it seems to, is if you are at a light for a real long time or if you have to turn you steering wheel almost to the stops and keep it there for a while. I could not even get it to die in reverse which it used to readily before.

Once I get access to a scan tool and fuel pressure tester I will have more info and I will post that then.

The thing with out a doubt that has helped the most was the slight adj of the TPS (95 percent improvement) and changing the fuel filter (5 percent improvement). But something is still just a touch off. I am closer now to having this fixed than a couple of shops I had taken it to in the past.

Anyway, I will keep you informed .....