If the clutch master cylinder pushrod is bending, there is definitely something wrong or binding up somewhere. I would suggest finding the problem before replacing or repairing the clutch master.
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Originally Posted by Corey'sgotachev
I don't see any part number or label on the slave cylinder. Yes, I have been adjusting the clutch by tightening/backing off nut that attaches to the clutch release fork (?).
My concern is, perhaps, the nut hasn't been the problem but the rod from the pedal to MC has been bending slightly? And yesterday varying the pressure on the pedal to try to make clutch release all the way so that it could go into gear and it folded/broke. The pedal lost all pressure and it went all the way to the floor and stayed there! At first I thought the hydraulic line broke, but it was the rod that folded over. I'm just not sure of the angle of the pedal to the MC is wrong? If I buy the rebuild kit from Tilton, what's to say that rod will also bend? There is only one spot on Wilwood pedal to attach the rod.
I'm not sure why whoever did the conversion didn't buy one kit from one manufacturer; not a piece from many different ones. Wouldn't they work better if it is an engineered system?
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Yes, ideally the clutch master and slave should be the same bore. That is how I size the clutch masters in the conversion kits I make and sell. Unless the factory components were different, then I usually go with what GM supplied in the original application.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Corey'sgotachev
At the Wilwood site, the slave cylinder they have, the bore is 7/8". The Tilton MC I have is 7/8". To be correct, the slave cylinder bore should match the master cylinder?
The drawing implies the rod should go straight through the opening into the master cylinder? The one I took a pic of, the rod is bent "in half". It's kind of hard to see with all the super-clean wiring under the dash.  |