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Old 12-07-2016, 08:48 PM   #27
Overdriven
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 598
Re: My LQ4/T56 build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckLee View Post
Not sure what I'm going to do with this clutch pedal setup I plan on re-purposing. It was mated to an el cheapo clutch MC that was connected to my old T5 setup in the truck. I need to fabricate something that gives me a nice long clutch pedal throw/feel while only allowing the clutch master pushrod to actuate at the correct length via some type of lever or something. hmmm. any suggestions feel free to post your solutions.

Untitled by FlickrAccount83, on Flickr
I guess the current setup doesn't offer enough pedal throw for your tastes? Easiest way is to increase throw would be to put the actuating rod closer to the pedal pivot point to change the pedal ratio but yours is already pretty close to the pivot point.

Another option is using a clutch master with a different bore size. Problem here is you're changing the slave cylinder from the external T5 to the LS style internal integrated throwout bearing/slave cylinder T56 combo. The bore size on your current clutch master may be better or worse for your new slave cylinder. Without knowing if it truly is better or worse you won't know whether to increase or decrease clutch master bore size.

Best thing to do is try and lookup what clutch master is used in a particular application (say Camaro) with your slave cylinder and see if you can figure out the pedal ratio for that application. Then with a little measuring you can replicate that pedal ratio and get the same amount of throw that you would in the original application. The only other thing you would have to do is adjust the length of the pushrod to set the pedal height, maybe install a clutch pedal stop and you'd be good to go.

If that's not complicated enough for you, adding a bellcrank will allow you to change the pedal ratio to whatever you want. Beware the math and/or trial and error involved, let alone mounting and making the thing beefy enough! Forgive my crude drawing and the fancy Lokar pedals but it does illustrate the basics. The green line is the bellcrank, red dot is the pivot point. Changing the distance of the link mounting point from the pivot point on the bellcrank changes the pedal ratio.
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