[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by C10Coloradoguy

My inexperience will probably show here so bear with me...

Here are the results with the new switch and both positions of the HAZARD knob:

A) Hazard knob pulled all the way out - No fuses pop but no signal lights at all when switch is pushed left or right. All other light functions seem to work.
B) Hazard knob pushed in - Hook the negative cable back up and HZRD fuse blows immediately

I feel like this should tell me what or where the problem lies but like I said, this is my first time wiring a vehicle and I'm learning as I go. Help me VV-wan-kenobi, you're my only hope.

Ok lets check out the new switch just to be sure. I take it that the hazard switch has to be pushed in to flash all the lights and out for the normal turn signals.

If you have the TS switch back in or still out doesn't matter as long as you know what wires are for which lights. I think you know the purple wire is the power wire for the normal turn signals and the dash indicator lights.

I'm going to use the normal colors for this test so I hope your column wires match.

Start out by removing the battery negative cable and if you have the column harness disconnected you can leave it on.

Here are the colors and what they do. Starting on one end and going across.

Black--------Horn

light blue---------left front--left indicator

dark blue--------right front--right indicator

brown----hazard power from the fuse panel hazard flasher

purple----- from fuse panel flasher for normal turn lights

yellow--------left rear turn/stop light

dark green -------right rear turn/stop light

white-----L and R rear brake lights

Here's a pic and it looks like the right colors are in the left hand. If they go to the TS switch it's all good if yours are not the same then you'll have to match them up.

Anyways here's how to test.

with the red meter lead on the white wire and the black lead touching the yellow then dark green and the switch lever in neutral-----zero ohms
these are the brake lights.

Now--put the lever in right turn and test the dark green wire---No ohms
Now --put the lever in left turn and test the yellow wire-- no ohms

if you get those readings your brake circuit is good.

Now--place the red meter lead on the purple wire and the black lead on the dark green wire with the lever in neutral--- no ohms

Now place the lever in right turn---- zero ohms--- right turn is good.

Now with the red led on purple wire, place the black lead on the yellow wire.
with the lever in neutral ---- no reading

Now place the lever in left turn ---zero ohms --left turn is good.

Now with the red lead still on purple, place the black lead on the light blue wire ( second from the end next to the black wire) with the lever in neutral--
no reading. Now place the lever in left turn-- zero ohms= the left front is good.

Now with the red lead still on purple place the black lead on the dark blue wire with the lever in neutral--no reading--lever in right turn--zero ohms. the front signals are good. Remember this is just the TS switch it doesn't mean the signal lights are good.

Now place the read lead on the brown wire (hazard) and with the TS lever in neutral and the hazard switch out, touch the black lead on the four turn wires
Yellow, dark green, Light blue, and dark blue.---no reading.

Just for kicks touch the red meter lead to the yellow wire and the black meter lead to the other three wires, Lb DB and dark green just to see if they are shorted to each other in the TS switch.

OK now we check the TS switch with the Hazard switch pushed in. The lever should be in neutral. Some of these switches are set up to flash all four lights and some of them require the lever to be place in L or R turn for the hazards to all flash. I don't remember if ours does but all four wires should read zero ohms in one position or the other.

So check for zero ohms between the brown wire and the four signal wires
Y DG LB and DB

If you are not getting these readings then you TS switch is bad.

From what you posted, with the hazard switch pulled out (off) the turn signals don't work, but if you are blowing fuses then you might not know.

I have a sneaking suspicion that your shorting blown fuse problem are a result of some thing shorted in the dash cluster indicator lights. That is why I asked you to disconnect the dash plug in my earlier post.

If you followed my testing in the other post on the turn signal wires you should have found the wire with the least ohms to ground which would indicate a short to ground and blown fuses.

GOOD LUCK.