[cjensen_68]

Vette, the switch is an electrical switch. it's set up correctly. I pulled the dash and opened the wiring. It's a bit of a mess. There is no ignition switch. It's basically a toggle switch with a push button to start the engine but there is a lot coming off of that toggle switch and I don't like it. I have already bought the switch and parts and will be going back to what factory came with. The main hot wire feeding the toggle switch was melted when I opened the harness up.

I was wrong with my initial thoughts on where the tan wire went. I thought it went to the brake switch but it went to the fuse panel. That's why I kept seeing 12V on pin 4 even with the connected off of the cluster. I got that situated now.

I do have another question with the fuel gauge though. Can my fuel gauge be working but have too low of resistance? I rigged it up to how it should be and it worked. I read another post where TBONE1964 did a write up on how to test the fuel system. In there his readings were different than mine on the fuel gauge. I had the dash out and between the feed and sending unit terminals I had 39ohms when tbone had 44 (not too worried with that one) but between the sending unit and ground he had 98 and I have 66. And for the feed to ground he had 140ohms and I had 75. Are those readings acceptable?

I did find a schematic that was color coded from this forum. I had printed it out at work on a 11x17 paper. What a life saver that is.