[VetteVet]

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Originally Posted by Green67Stepper

Thanks for the info. That diagram helped a lot. I looked at it 100 times this weekend probably. So I did wire in a new ignition pigtail I got from Brothers. The only thing different was that my stock pigtail didn't have the large brown wire on it, only the small solid strand brown/white wire. (My truck originally was a 250/3speed with the 3 hole cluster) On the new pigtail, I just didn't wire anything to the large brown wire.

OK I didn't notice the 67. Mine is too and the large brown wire is the accessory wire to the fuse panel. The 67 key has no accessory terminal so no brown wire (12 gauge) in the harness. The smaller wire is the exciter wire for the alternator and it's probably connected to the pink ignition wire.

What I am still a little confused on is what is pulling so much current that its melting the pink and red wires. I wouldn't think it would be anything on my motor harness, since its running 3 relays and 8 individual fuses for all those electronics.

About the only thing you can do is put an inductive ammeter on the large red wire on the key switch and turn everything on and read the total amps it's pulling to see if it's more than the wire is rated for. First off is the wire just getting warm or is it actually melting and are you thinking that over time it might get like it was when you changed it?

My stock fuse block isn't running much extra stuff either. I have the radio and cigarette lighter tied together and running off the radio terminal. I have my TCC switch running off one of the unfused ignition terminals and I then have my OBD2 port (with Gauge Reader), SES light, and a Autometer 3-pod mechanical gauge set running off the other unfused ignition terminal.

Why don't you have the torque converter clutch wired through the brake switch so it disconnects when the brakes are applied? Seems like it would be engaged all the time wired to the IGN-UNfused. How does it disengage when you're at a red light?

The OBD2 reader port is normally wired to the cigar terminal on most cars cause it's hot all the time. I don't think it pulls any juice when the car is turned off, but maybe it does.

The check engine light wouldn't pull much but I would think it would be wired through the OBD2 reader unless it's triggered by the engine sensor circuits and the PCM.

Should I pull all that off the stock fuse block on run a new power wire from the battery with relays/fuses? What else should I check? (I really hate wiring....) I also thought about adding a circuit breaker to the main feed off the battery and getting rid of that fusible link wire before the junction block. Is this a good idea and if so, what size circuit breaker would be good?

It might be a good idea to PM Andy, he and I are good friends and we have met in person, and ask him what he did with his. He has an LS conversion with the 700 and a whole bunch of electronics and relays. I could make some suggestions and guide you through it but he might be able to get you there quicker.
One good way would be to run a firewall mounted fuse panel with a main junction there.

I wouldn't use a circuit breaker in place of the fusible link because it would not disconnect completely in case of a short. It would just sit there and buzz like a tree frog, plus the fusible links are designed to compensate for current surges before they blow.

I am running just a single wire alternator too.

Are you running a newer style CS that doesn't have to be revved to start charging? They don't compensate for downstream voltage drops unless the sensing is done through the PCM. I think the 96 or newer ones do.