|
Yes...i can answer that question. Just a moment...have to run down the stairs to the garage and retrieve my 91 wiring book...
Ok....
Black is ground....
Orange w/black stripe is your batt hot (constant)....fuse panel to the tail gate key switch...so you can operate the tail gate glass with a key from the outside without ign switch being turned on.
Light Blue is your "DOWN" from the dash switch....which runs thru the deadman switch on the left rear latch...then to the motor..
Tan/Wht is your "UP" from the dash switch
Pink wire is batt hot (Switched)...from fuse block to the dash switch...
Light / Blue @ Tan/ White will have a splice somewhere in the tailgate harness to split between the regulator motor and the key switch...
I recommend using a high quality DVOM like a Fluke to ohm all circuits to make sure one leg of the circuit doesn't have to high of resistance.... 0.1/3 tenths of an ohm are considered normal values...start getting over that....especially 2 and 3 ohms you will suffer from the slow window curse.
Some tailgate parts were not born to last...glass seals seem to last 3 to 4 years....course i lived in az back then but...
The deadman switch is made by Indak...and they still make alot of switches in the diesel buisness where i work...but they have a tendancy to be the weak link in the whole deal....currently mine is deleted from the system. The terminals at that harness are series 56 on the older units...can't say what a newer unit uses as i've never had one that new open. Cables also seem to wear out after a few years...once the cable sheath comes away from the ends you will have the squeeky rear window...cured by a flick of the dash switch only to return minutes later...
If the latches in your tailgate are worn...so are the strikers...and saying this they should be considered a mated pair..don't change one without the other...
Hope this helps out a bit.
Doug W.
|