Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinceg
Nice work. There is no reason for the brace's at this point. Once you have the bolts in the inner rocker your good to go. Tighten down your bolts and everything will be secured to the inner rocker. Mount the door and see how the gaps are and line the rocker so the gaps are the same front to back. Once the rocker is on you can work on the cab corner. Line the bottom of the corner to the bottom of the rocker. Looking good!
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Thanks Vince, I had planned to move onto hanging the door and remembered that I botched that door repair a while back. So I need to redo it, this time with a full door skin vs the base. What happened to me was I had lower door rust and thought I could just cut across the base amd replace it, but I had applied too much heat and because of how low the repair was I couldnt get to the base of the door on the inside to planish. Here is the thread on that.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=690647
Even though the base edge of the door would be the same when I repair it, I think the right approach is get the door fixed first and then hang it. Sound right to you guys?
Until then I went ahead and started a firewall/windsheild/dash rust repair that for a while I wasnt sure how I would approach it. I just knew that to cut holes and try and fix things without removing that air vent side panel was not gonna work. But then I thought maybe I can just cut out a section big enough to deal with the trouble spots and not have to drill out all the spot welds around that entire panel. The area I cut should be accessible from behind to planish as I use my mig spot for spot. The top of the panel to the left has an opening so I will be able to stick my arm through there and hold the dolly while I smack it from the top as I go to keep it straight.
First issue I was having was that I have been using a harbor freight spot weld remover hole saw tool and I usually have trouble with that. Even with a punch to mark a pilot hole to sit the tool in it always seems to get away from me. Or I end up drilling too far and go right through both panels. So I read this thread about spot weld cutters
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=727222
In that thread MP&C and Martin cover tools and methods and for me I think that the Wivco is worth a shot. So I ordered one but it wont be here for a few days. Until then I looked at MP&C's approach of using the grinder, but since I need to salvage the top piece I'm cutting I used my dremel with a tiny disc instead of a 3 inch disc. Worked out good.
After I got that top portion off I taped off an area of the under side that was rusted out where the seams meet and cut it out. Then of course there is an area in the windshield channel that decayed into the back of the dash, so I used the dremel and cut it out, hoping that I can get it patched up properly. That whole area where this rusted out in that seam really bugs me, it looks like the seam is supposed to act as a channel for the rain to run down and ultimately rot out. I guess seam sealer failed?
From the inside there is a brace that I went ahead and removed cause its all rusted from behind. So I have since wire wheeled, de-greased and used metal ready to prep it. In fact all the rusty spots I did this too as well and plan to POR15 them up next.
