Engine Specs and Parts list in case anyone is interested:
350 bored 60 0ver 4.06
3.48 Crank
76CC heads (993)
Intake - 1.94
Exhaust - 1.5
1.5 ratio long slot rockers
Hydraulic Roller Cam: 218/224 X .496
109 Degree cam lobe seperation
Redlines 5,500-5,800 (max RPM 6,500)
Edelbrock RPM Performer Intake Part #7101
Edelbrock Victor Series Mechanical Water Pumps with PermaStar Part # 88103 (The price went up $60 since)
Holley 600 CFM Electric
Doug Throley Tri-Y headers (custom made by me haha)
Transmission stall is going to need upgrading so I went ahead and got a Huges performance 2,200-2,500 Stall because of the powerband is in the 2,200-4,000 range
Peak torque is @ 3,800 and Peak HP is 4,600 ( I could be wrong, but I those the notes I had. I just know the peak HP and TQ is withing 1,000 RPm of each other.
Hughes Performance Street Master Torque Converters GM25
None of the off the shelf air cleaner spacers from any of the local auto parts stores would work because the secondaries would get stuck on the way back so I opted for the Holley which is a lot more money but it works
Holley Air Cleaner Spacers 17-14
I also added a spacer plate with 4 holes instead
Summit Part - SUM-G1412
Holley Carb base plate Gasket with 4 holes for square bore design
Part # - 108-58
Proform GM LIcensed Linear Wire Looms
Part # 141-741
These worked great and now they keep my spark plug wires from touching the headers and I was able to use pre-cut spark plug wires.
Holley Fuel Filter
Part # 162-562
In order to run a complete hard line from the fuel pump to the inlet on the carb I needed these additional parts
Holley Fuel Bowl Fitting
Part # 26-43
This replaces the hose barbed fitting that comes stock with the holley carb so you can run an inverted flare nut.
Because of the type of fuel filter I am running, it requires compression style fittings. I didn't wantt to use adapter and have to flare 4 nuts so I talked to the tech support at Summit and the guy hooked me up with all the right parts I needed. I called Holley and they couldn't help me navigate the setup I was seeking.. It's funny, I was telling this to Summits tech support and he was saying that even the manufacturers support reps call them for help..
I got the Summit Brand AN to Tube Adapter Fittings - Part # SUM-2200075B
2 of these are required. Once on each end of the fuel filte.
The other part required to make this setup work is AN to 3/8 NPT adapter so I ordered the Summit Brand part # SUM-220648B.
The Summit brand is 1/4 of the price of the name brands and I can almost bet they are just as good or one of the major brands is having Summit re-brand it as thier own but at much lower cost,
The water neck that came with my motor wouldn't work because of the intake. I wouldn't be able to get a hose on there without it seriously binding on the valve cover so I went ahead and purchased a swivel style water neck so I can make the proper adjustments
Billet Specialties Thermostat - Part # BLK90320
In the pictures below you can see I added a throttle cable bracket
Holley Part # 20-112.
Holley Denten Cable bracket part# 20-119
Lokar Throttle Cable - Part # XTC-1000HT36
Again with the Edelbrock intake it wasn't allowing the Trans Kickdown bracket to sit flush without biding on the valve covers so I found this to serve as an alternative and it also keeps everything off the intake and gives it a cleaner look.
However, like always, I never do enough research before making a purchase.
I also added a Lokar HI-Tech Kickdown kit - Part # KD-2350U... In theory, sounded like a good idea to replace the old one, but it didn't occur to me the length is stock like original. Since I raised the hieight of where the original kickdown bracket attaches too (intake) the cable ended up being to short and was coming in at an angle...
I found a great build thread in the "Its' Just a Pickup" by member Bruce88
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...318544&page=14
I actually took a lot of his ideas
Great reference material in there if you haven't seen it before.
So what I did was take a piece of an aluminum block and cut it to fit just enough for the bracket to slide through it. I then drilled one hole all the way through and another hole about 1/4-1/2" deep and made threads with a tap kit, What this did was lower the kickdown bracket enough so it wasn't coming in at an angle like before. It now sits straight. For the 700R4 Transmission the geometory needs to be spot on, but since I'm running a TH350 the geomentry doesn't need to be at a perfect spec, but i did need to make the adjustment anyways because of the way it lined up before.