Quote:
Originally Posted by 72stepside327
Oh, OK Neba. I misunderstood you.
You're saying basically that your alternator won't charge your battery if you do the dash switch unless you run the extra wire to pin #5 in the dash clip? That's pretty weird considering the alt/ hotwire is spliced into the battery positive wire run from the passenger side fender to just below the voltage regulator.
However, mine is now installed and doesn't seem to be hurting anything, so I'll leave it be just in case!
I actually have the book with the "factory" wiring diagrams, and I'm telling you the way this gauge is hooked up makes no sense whatsoever. Basically you have two hot wires run right into the dash clip at pins #1 & #12. One goes to the battery positive wire fender bolt, the other is from the alternator hotwire spliced together in a 5-wire splice by the voltage regulator.
Here's a poll question:
Does anyone have, or has anyone ever seen one of these factory gauges that actually works?
Fixit, I'd be interested to hear from you regarding the shunt system wiring from the old Chevy II's. Maybe there is a way to use that wiring scheme to properly wire these C-10 battery gauges.
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Your book is correct. You will have to supply the battery gauge wires and fuse them with 4 amp fuses like Fixitp said. You cannot use the no. 5 terminal as there is nothing connected to it on the gauge panel. The no, 1 and 12 terminals are for the battery gauge as you know and you will have to add them to your harness as you also know.
In order for the alternator to charge you will have to add a wire( brown ) to your harness from the ignition switch to the voltage regulator with a 30 ohm resister wired in series. That can be a light but if it blows while you're on the road then the alternator won't charge. It will also be on all the time when the engine is running.
I have added some diagrams for clarity. They show the dash wiring for both systems. The last one is the wiring for the old ammeter with the internal shunt, not sure what type the chevy II used.