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Old 02-26-2017, 10:26 AM   #49
hgs_notes
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: MN
Posts: 6,107
Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck

Yesterday I finished the power steering pump stuff, except for installing the pulley. I picked up some hose to redo the return lines. I wanted to get a pair of 90* elbows but they are fairly hard to come by for 3/8" hose and somewhat expensive too. I found a 3/8" Tee to use instead, which means I only need to use one of the return line connections. BTW, I've read in multiple places that combining the returns shouldn't be an issue. If any problems do arise it's an easy enough fix. Not my best work, but it'll do.


Then I got the throttle cable installed. I was able to use the donor truck cable. With a slight modification. The distance from the firewall to the gas peddle is different.


My quickie fix was to tie a not in the cable.


It works, and might last forever, but I did order some cable stops like the one in the universal throttle kits. I had this kit but since the OEM cable will work fine I'm going to return it and get my $60 back. Also, the hole in the firewall of the 79 is square and the 2000 cable went through a round hole. I drilled it out with a 11/16" bit and it fits good.




So the only thing left for the front of the engine is the AC compressor. There are several options for this, maybe even some OEM brackets. I chose to go with a kit from ICT Billet.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/icb-551495-3

It uses an R-4 compressor which I got from the junkyard for $35. I will need to see if my hoses will connect to it. They might, but I saw that one of them has a twist or slight kink in it and I might need to get a new set anyway, but there were several available at the same junkyard.

I started working on the fuel lines. I have the ones from the donor truck, and they might have worked, but not without a lot of frustration. They are bent every which way for mounting on that 2000 Silverado. And I made an attempt at straightening them out to work and that was going ok, not great. The main problem I ran into was trying to remove the inline fuel filter. The flare fitting is stuck on one end. After an hour or so of dicking around with it I figured it wasn't worth the trouble. So I ordered some aluminum fuel line from summit. I've used it before. It's cheap and easy to work with. You can flare it for a better grip with hose clamps or you can use compression fittings. It's good for at least 100 psi. Then just use some EFI rubber hose for the connections, etc. You can go the more expensive route with AN fittings, etc. to make it look way awesome but I'm more frugal.

Anyway, once the new tubing gets here I'll be able to get the fuel tank installed and lines run. I ordered some exhaust tubing, hopefully what I need to connect the stubs to my exhaust. I also ordered a 4" drop shackle kit for the rear suspension.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/djm-hs1119-4

Once I'm done with the mechanical work under the truck I'll work on dropping the suspension. It's nice to slide under it now without having to jack it up. I want it lower but not a huge amount. I've got a camper to haul with this rig...


Once it's dropped in back I can see where I'm at with the driveshaft. Right now it's too long. They make an offset plate to use to move the axle on the spring by as much as an inch for about $22. If that's enough I might go that route. Otherwise, the shop where my son works and where I'm getting the harness and ECU from can shorten it. For the front, I'm going to see where it gets to by cutting some of the springs, then decide from there. 2-1/2" Drop spindles are available. The front is already sitting higher with the lighter engine.

Still a lot to do but it's all coming together. I'm hoping to get it fired up by the end of March. MAybe today I'll get the new tranny mount installed so I can get all the mounts tightened down.
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