Quote:
Originally Posted by 88Ironduke
A DVM cannot show the health of the wire or current carrying capacity. Seeing 12 volts at a particular point of wire or measuring ground does not show the whole picture. You're going after damaged wire or partial ground.
You need a load test light. Wire up a tail light in a socket, switch your DVM to amps and put the light in series with the meter and run power thru the light at the battery directly post to post. Solder sewing pins on the wire as they work well to back probe connectors. See what amperage you're pulling with the light and the note brightness, you now have a standard to measure. Start at junctions and connectors with your load light. Isolate legs of wire. If you can light the bulb you have verified the wire is solid.
Brake pedal switch is good place to start. The bulk head connection going from inside and outside, rear connection and then the tail light assemblies themselves.
Paul
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Yeah I get it now, I don't know if you read my follow up comments but that's what im doing now. I am using one of the bulbs and jumpering power and ground to it from different sources. I found that the orange wire doesn't provide enough current straight from the fuse block even if I disconnected everything on that circuit.