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Old 11-08-2017, 03:13 PM   #4
dsraven
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 7,774
Re: First post, and yep its about suspension

as a quick response, I would call Heidts or whoever and ask for thedrop dimension. if they can give you the oinfo then that is a good thing, if not, look for a supplier who is able to do that because they will be the company who has customer service. from a guy who purchased a MII from a reputable supplier several years back I can tell you that when I had problems (sent wrong cross member so it didn't fit the angle/slope of the frame) the manufacturer had no clue and was no help. just weld it in was the response. since it had a 1/2" gap in some areas that was obviously not gonna work. I actually got better information from a different supplier who gave me the dimensions I needed even though they knew they weren't the manufacturer. in the end my cross member ended up lower than I wanted due to the issue. the company (middleman) who supplied the parts was no help either.
I guess what I am saying is contact them and ask questions. if you are able to get some dimensional facts or a drawing of what the MII should look like for your track width and frame width then they would possibly go to the top of the list. go with the most heavy duty one you can find (ask about wall thickness on the control arms etc) who use the best parts. try to get a part number or donor vehicle that the parts would be used on, eg, ball joints are stock replacements on xx vehicle. I was not pleased with the way the ball joint rubbers sealed on my front end because the rubbers simply sat on the stud of the ball joint and had no physical seal against the body of the part. that is basically an invitation for road dirt to enter the joint and wear it out prematurely. pics of the assembled parts on an actual model or truck would be good to see so you can check things like that. even better if you could see one in person at a parts store. the other thing to check is the upper control arm mounts because you may be buying an "on sale" older style which uses "T" bolts to mount the upper control arm shafts. the newer style uses a vertical frame mount for the shaft and "T" bolts are not used. the issue is the old style "can" move across the horizontal frame mount for the old style if the truck hits a pot hole hard enough. lots of guys have used the old style with no issues so that is a personal preference thing.
if I was going to do it again I would look for a unit that bolts in instead of a weld in unit. that is simply because of ease of assembly and also ease of rake angle changes after the fact. if welded in you better like the rake angle because thats what you got now. I like the look of the scotts assembly but it is pricey and although it has adjustable heim joints on the upper control arms those joints are prone to wear. as opposed to a solid tubular control arm they are nice because they are adjustable but the front end alignment will cost you more because the arm needs to be removed to adjust the joint I think. I could be wrong because I am just going off a web pic.
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