[47owner]

info i found on line, i plan to use the original 4.3 V6, but am a bit confused about the drive shaft, it's to high???

Now let's look at the Chevy S-10 Pick-up

S-10 comes in three wheelbase lengths. 108" Shortbed,
117" Longbed,
122" Extended Cab. 2WD and 4WD.
It has a variety of engines, 2.2 and 2.5 4 cyl, 2.8 and 4.3 V6
transmissions, T5 Stick, 60 and 90 deg TH700 4R automatics.
The rearend came in different ratios, 2.41, 2.73, 3.08, 3.23, 3.33, 3.42, 3.73, and 4.11.
The frame you want for your swap is the 2WD 117" Longbed. How to tell them apart?
The Shortbed has a standard cab and a one piece driveshaft,
The Ext Cab has the ext cab (obviously) and a two piece driveshaft.
The one you want is the 2WD Longbed, it has a standard cab and a two piece driveshaft
Try to get one that is 1989 or newer with the 2.8 or 4.3 V6 with an automatic transmission.
Any S-10 2WD Longbed from 1982 on will work.

WARNING: Stay away from the S-10 BLAZERS!!!
FYI: The GMC S-15 or Sonoma is the same pick up as the S-10, and uses the same frame.

Just remember: 2WD Longbed 117" wheelbase.

The S-10 Frame:

>33" wide at the front and 40" wide at the rear. Normal stance is about 10" to 12" from the ground. The frame is boxed from the front to the back of the cab, measuring 4" high and 3" wide, and expands to 5" wide at key stress points.
>The frame is NOT flat by any means. The center portion of the frame is 3" below the front A-Frame rise and 7" below the rear rise. Formed much like a Z'd frame.
>The front is an Independant Suspension with coil springs and torsion bars. The rear is offset by 1" and mounted above the leaf springs. Both can be lowered inexpensively.
>Hubs and drums are interchangeable with any year S-10, S-15, S-10 Blazer, most mid size GM. The bolt pattern is 4 3/4 and both the 14" and 15" rims fit.
>The fronts are power disc brakes, in newer years both front and rear are power disc brakes. All S-10/S15/Blazer differentials will swap out. 4WD are 4" wider.
>Power steering was the norm, but there are some older ones with stock steering.

Note: A "Rolling Chassis" is what you want, but make sure it has the power steering box.
$200-$300 from the junkyard.

If you already have a complete 117" Longbed truck, then you've got some stripping to do. invite a couple of buddies over, fire up the BBQ, chill a few six-packs, and let's start stripping.
When you strip and dismantle, keep in mind that some of these parts can be used again.
you may be able to sell most of the body parts and get back some of the money you paid out.
I paid $400 for my non-running S-10 and sold the engine for $150, the bed for $150, the complete front for $200 and I gave away the cab. I ended up with a frame, a $100 and I didn't have to cart anything to the junkyard. I'm sure you know how to strip a vehicle down to the frame.

Here's a list of parts that you may want to re-use:
Emergency brake cable. Don't cut this cable. Carefully remove it from the E-brake pedal assembly and pull it out of the cab.
Brake pedal assembly and booster with Master cylinder. Don't cut the brake lines.
Steering column and steering shaft. Don't cut wires. If you have column mounted headlight/dimmer switch, or washer/wiper switch, or ignition switch this could be useful.
Wiper motor and assembly. I haven't figured out if it will work, but you might.
Seat. Check the width, I believe it's less than 52"
Anything electrical that you want. Bulbs, sockets, fusebox, radio, radio antenna, dash mounted headlight switch.


Note: These items will do nicely...
Ok...You've got your frame stripped down, cleaned up, and ready for the engine and transmission.
The S-10 frame will hold almost any American made engine, small block or big.
They've come from the factory with engines as small as a 1.9L 4 banger, and I've seen 500 cube Cadillacs put in them. Whatever you decide, be sure that you choose a good strong engine mount.
The reason for this is that you will be using a one piece driveshaft, and you've got to be able to adjust it so that the tail of the transmission will be at the same or near angle as the pinion angle in the differential.
What's wrong with the original two piece driveshaft? Nothing, except it sits much to high above the frame, and it can't be lowered without changing the angle. If you were to keep it at the present height, you would have cut an eight wide inch strip out of the floor and cover it with a eight inch wide by eight inch high driveshaft tunnel. To me that's a lot more work than adjusting the transmission to the right angle, having a driveshaft cut to the right length, and bolting it on. If you're using a small block Chevy with a TH350/9 inch tail or TH700 4R, then use the standard engine mounts from a Chevy pickup, and a driveshaft from an 88 Chevy Caprice 4dr wagon with an automatic that has a 9 inch tail. No cutting needed. Of course you'll have to drill new holes in your transmission mount.