Quote:
Originally Posted by rickpilgrim
Coils don't normally fall but an old school cheater test was to hook a live wire to the + side and to the - side a wire with a bare end. Hook your spark testing screwdriver to the coil output wire and have your assistant tap the bare end on a grounded part of the engine like . . . . . . . and watch for spark.
O Reilly's and other parts houses have module testors but if your module failed DO NOT buy the cheap replacements as I've had those fail with alarming regularity on our daily drivers
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Was trying to kill myself yesterday getting Firewood into the wood shed.
So, went back out, pulled the module out and noticed the pickup coil inside looked rusty. I just slid a piece of sand paper down inside that and kind of wiped it around and notice the rust on the sand paper when I pulled it up and out.
I did that several times, but this worthless chilton book does not give a clue on how to test it, pretty much says replace the distributor at $140 bucks.
Yeah maybe if had it to spare but I don't. The pickup coil does not come with it either.
So, I have been looking for how to test that thinking its be ohms open, ohms closed so turning that engine over, it should be pulsing the ohm meter.
Mine is a Fluke DMM and pretty fast reading anyway.
I took the distributor module over to NAPA and my friend tested it and said No problems with it. New one (good one was 51 bucks) but didn't need it he said.
So, what you said to test the coil, its a transformer so power to the plus, take the minus and ground it for a spit second and if the coil is working, spark will come out of the spark plug wire hole. I always get mixed up with primary and secondary circuits.
Anyway, this does not have that and without a schematic, I have no idea once I pull the plug off that coil on which pin is which.
I will get a picture of it as I think I remember a red and white wire coming from the distributor to the coil, then the other two go into the wiring loom.
Kind of lost on what procedure to go after next.