Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic1947
For DP50 I believe the posted recoat window is around 7 days. To make sure, you can put a small amount of urethane reducer on a rag and gently dab a tiny, out of the way spot on the fender and see if any of the DP primer transfers to the rag. If it does, you're good to go. However, if the primer is fully catalyzed and does not show on the rag, you need to scuff the surface before applying anything else.
That said, my "opinion" is that you should always final block any primer before applying a color topcoat. I no longer have access to a clean environment for painting, so a few dust nibs almost always find their way into my work. Also, you have to be a top notch painter to lay down heavy primers without some orange peel to the surface. I find it best to final sand the surface with 500-600 grit paper before applying the color coat... whether single stage or BC/CC. Just my $.02 worth.
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Thank you for that, so basically if the primer is not fully cured you could spray a topcoat on it correct? I agree with you on the final blocking for visible surfaces though to keep the orange peel to a minimum. Not to mention if I missed as an area like I did it would be another fine mess. 😊 I will say though that im surprised at how hard this primer is in sanding after 24 hours , I am following a the directions of the paint store as to how to read the graduations on the mixing cup to achieve the ratio.