Thanks for the great info HG,
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Originally Posted by hgs_notes
Did you get the rod from the power brake set up that connects to the brake pedal? They are different lengths. The non-power brake rod from the pedal is shorter and won't work on a power brake set up.
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from the booster to the bracket we used the rod that came with the mc/booster. from the bracket to the brake pedal I made one my self, because the default one wasn't long enough.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hgs_notes
Have you measured how much vacuum you have? It should be a good 15" or more at idle. Mine will run about 10-12" while driving and increase at idle. Drops to almost nothing when accelerating. Measure it at the vacuum line to the booster.
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No I haven't, that's a good tip. I can use a standard vacuum gauge for that right? someone also told me how to test the booster. with the engine running, pinch the vacuum line between the booster and intake manifold. if the engine starts to ref lower than the booster is leaking.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hgs_notes
If the brakes and master cylinder are properly bled (not always easy, I did mine multiple times) and the brakes properly adjusted the brakes should be firm. If you have too much pedal movement before you feel pressure then the rod connected to the brake pedal needs adjusted.
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the pedal travel feels good, but indeed I need to bleed them again because on the first stomp on the pedal is is soggy and then firms up if I pump the brake.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hgs_notes
When I converted to power brakes I had to learn how to brake again because they grabbed so much harder and quicker than I was used to. I used the C-20 booster set up.
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OMG...I'd give my left arm now for grabby brakes.
