Yep, that pretty much sums it up. Thanks for helping out, saved me a lot of typing!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68c10airstream
That's correct. I just remembered the only problem i had when done was my needle stuck at 0 mph and wouldn't respond until i drove it and hit a few bumps and the dash warmed up then the needle moved. I pm'd ls1nova and once again he helped me and said i needed to remove the paint from the area where the needle hits the rest pin. I had painted the needles during the cluster job and the paint removal fixed it.
It does have to do with where the needle starts out at as going 60 mph and try to maintain that speed and remove the needle and then reinstall at the right moment and still drive safely is more than what i can do because i hate multitasking.
Just consider it's a trial and error process. I just left the clear lens off, made a tape reference mark for 60mph and drive and check recheck until correct. Just don't turn the ignition off at the drive motor for the needle has the tendency to move down counterclockwise, so leave the truck running and i suppose using gps and check your speed, pull over, take the needle off and reposition as needed.
Remember that these clusters are a little odd to look at around 10-30 mph because of the angle of your line of sight and referencing the needle to the mph scale but that's just the way they were. So to double check at 60mph is perfect because the line of sight at that point isn't a problem if that helps plus if it's accurate at 60 i don't care if it's off a hair at low speeds
Of all of the mods i've done to the truck the ls engine and the cluster mods are my favorites. The 8,000 rpm tach change is a must with the ls and the pcm will need to be scaled accordingly to read correctly. Terry at lone star dyno straightened this out for me. His avatar is "CRITTER"
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