[bufmatmuslepants]

Sorry I am posting this from another thread I created on LS1tech, explains the past tense and present.

ABS and brake lights came back on on my way back from lunch, but cleared when I turned the motor off then on again.

Then on the way home the SES light came back. Then a few minutes later something changed, the idle went high, like 750 in gear and 1050 in park, I don't know if the fuel injector cleaner worked something loose, or I hit a sweet dead spot in the coolant temp sensor causing it to go into high idle, but when I got home I turned it off, cycled the key 3 times to reset the IAC, and it fired back up as normal.

Changed the oil, got just a touch over 5 quarts out of it, just enough to hit the top of the new 5 quart jug, even though the dipstick said full. It was for my peace of mind knowing 6 quarts was in there and the low oil light is not actually because of low oil. The FRAM filter I pulled off was way heavier than it should have been even though the PO said he changed the oil 500 miles ago, the oil was dark but not too bad, a little sludge on the plug but not awful. I put in Castrol GTX high mileage advance auto special with a purolator filter, will change it again after 1000 miles just to clean any sludge it works loose. Oil pressure looks better, it used to always be at 20psi at idle even when cold, now it's 30-40, I was concerned sludge had filled the oil filter and was somehow causing the low oil light.

Changed the rest of the plugs and wires, the Carquest premium wires were shorter than the ones I took off, no slack but they fit.

Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaning spray, it was pretty dirty. Disconnected the battery while I did this to clear the PCM.

Fired it up, it stalled out the first few times until I feathered the throttle and it let the IAC catch up. It still only idled around 500-550rpm, is this normal? It is smoother now, but I feel like it should be higher, it's always at 550, in both park and drive. I might need to clean the TB more and the throttle position switch and IAC.

What causes it to go into high idle? Does the MAF reading cold IAT have anything to do with it or just coolant temp? I've never seen it go into high idle, even in the morning, or kicking on the AC, it just has always stayed at 550ish. I think I need to ohm out my coolant temp sensor.

Only took it around the block but it feels better, smoother, even the trans shifts felt smoother. Took the bike to work today but I need to drive it a bit and see if the fixed it or if I still need to change the battery to frame ground. I have half a can of seafoam that I want to put through the brake booster to clean any carbon out as well.

Can anyone please do me a favor and measure your ground resistance when it's warm and running from the negative post to frame and negative to block? Is 25ohms normal? I had 70 when at operating temp before, what's the threshold for "problem"?