[bufmatmuslepants]

I have a Fluke and have been using that. I have 0.3 ohms to ground from negative post to frame, block and body when the motor is off. I have 25 ohms with the engine on. I used to have 60 until I cleaned all the negative grounds.

I did not notice a difference in idle quality or anything on the truck when I had the brand new camaro battery in there.

I had put the camaro battery back in the camaro to move it out of the garage to change the trucks oil, and luckily left it in there so when my oil pressure was at 0 I didn't have to swap batteries to take the camaro to work. I still had the old battery in the truck when we drove to VA beach and I THINK I had left the door open over night (or I opened it when I was loading the truck that morning and didn't notice it was already dead) but either way on Saturday the battery was dead enough to not crank the truck and I had to jump it to go home. When it did that it did reset the PCM because voltage was low enough and it cleared the check engine light, but did not reset the IAC because it didn't stumble like normal when I swapped batteries. Either way, whether it was low enough voltage to reset the SES or it cleared on its own, the check engine light has not come back on in over 200 miles. Usually it came back within 30 miles. The light was for LOW KNOCK SENSOR INPUT BANK 2 and CATALYST BELOW EFFICIENCY BANK 2. My guess is the low oil pressure before was not pumping the lifters enough, causing a little tick enough for the knock sensor to pick up, causing it to pull timing on bank 2, causing incomplete fuel burn, causing the O2 sensor to pick up more oxygen, causing the cat code.

I did clean the ground on the EBCM on the body mount cup, but did not replace the bolt with a through bolt and a nut, so it might not be making good connection. Since I cleaned that ground, the ABS and BRAKE lights come on MORE than they used to, so I do need to replace it with a nut and bolt and clean it again and see if that helps.

I DID get another CHECK ENGINE OIL LEVEL light, even after the sludge removal. It would not clear with a quick shut off of the engine and restart like it had in the past, but did clear after sitting overnight, and the oil level looked ok but it was dark out. That one is still strange. I have not read the codes to see if I have a code for the knock sensor or cat pending, but I will when I get back from Cali this weekend.

I got a new head unit from my brother that I will swap in and I will disconnect the 1 bad speaker left and see if that was a short. The fact that when I changed 2 blown speakers and my 1 and 4 preset lights started working again was strange.

The dash light dimmer switch is another suspected short, as it does not dim, it has to be all the way up, just barely balanced before the dome lights come on to have the dash lights work at all. I need to change that too, or disconnect it and see if that changes anything.