Quote:
Originally Posted by VetteVet
Your test is right and it's not showing the diode pack is grounded to the case.
Did you ever test the output of the alternator when the engine was running before the maxifuse blew? Red lead on the output stud and black lead to case looking for 13 to 15.5 volts.
If you are getting 16 plus then the alternator is overcharging and putting too much current through the MF and causing it to blow.
As long as you're not showing a short to ground through the alternator, I think I would run a bypass wire from the alternator to the junction without the maxifuse, and read the alternator output. Turn on all the accessories that you have and read the meter. I could be that you are simply using too small a Maxifuse or you need the fusible link. Most of our year vehicles do not use a fuse or a fusible link in the charging wire to the junction but everything from the junction is fused.
Yours is newer so they may have started using them when they changed the alternator routing to the starter solenoid.
I have been assuming that your truck has the 12 SI alternator so is that correct?
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Sorry for the late update, hope you're still here.
Got a rebuild kit on the way from summit. In the meantime I put the alt back in with a 40amp maxi fuse and turned the truck on. I also turned the headlights on, driver door open, radio on and ac on and the alt stud was reading 14.06v while those were running. With the truck running with nothing on except the door open the stud was reading just around 14.56v. The one thing that bothers me is that my volt gauge reading drops down to almost 11v with everything on (radio, lights, etc.) all of his is with a 40amp MF