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Old 07-21-2020, 06:49 PM   #176
71CHEVYSHORTBED402
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Northern Nevada
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Re: Build that 71 402 already

Quote:
Originally Posted by 68bowtie View Post
This thread could double as a drafting class.

Question - How do you punch / mark the hole to keep your drill bit in position?

BTW, this is the epitome of perfectionism right here...

Attachment 2005976
Thank you, I just saw this message. I didn't drill, the body/paint dude did, I was there for moral support....Kidding, but he was drill guy. He took it very slowly with my 9.6 Mikita drill. Here's what we did:

Discover hole placement: Boy if I had to do this all over again

Center punch. If for some reason it drifts punch it again & again. Ask me how I know.

1/8" drill bit for the larger holes & oil. Smaller bit for tap screws.

We finished drilling the holes with a step bit.

Like mentioned before this job didn't go perfect, we missed on some requiring corrections. Worst of it we a missed for the tailgate handle on an already base-coated ochre tailgate, and turns out two spots for the tail bezels for the same because the drill drifted. This bed had full moldings before someone welded up the holes, so we were drilling through welds. Found some old bezel clips in the welds too, so I know we nailed some On top of that one of the holes in the base-coat chipped around a bezel hole. Josh is a blessing, he fixed that and luck has it the area required a white coat anyway. I guess the moral of the story is bring patience.

Edit: I've read it's a good idea to tape finished surfaces if you have to drill. In hindsight we probably should have. Then again, in double hindsight at least the rear should have been drilled before any paint. Lucky for us the bed sides drilled cleanly. Only the bed and tailgate had a base coat. Good thing too, I found five spots in the doors and fenders that have to be re-drilled.

I just finished a write-up on the moldings from other angles, which took way too long Long story short I'd like to see slight drops in the RH door and fender for final. While the post above says the top rear of the upper fender molding is 4" below the top of the panel, the other fender was 4.1/16", and we'll end up running with that on both sides. My C20 mostly agrees, but then again, the factory installed them

Have to say the fenders and doors are really well made. I've measured too many places, gave me a headache
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Tony
71 Custom Deluxe, SWB, 2WD, 402, A/C. I developed an assm. guide "kit" for restoring it from ground up. With assys, the guide accts for 1000s details such as OEM identifications& part numbers, written in short order. 700+ images include assm, illust., charts, and points of interest. Much of the info. applies to all 67-72 GM trucks, and to a lessor degree all 67-72 GM vehicles. My build thread, and more on the guide https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=730025

Last edited by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402; 07-22-2020 at 02:33 PM.
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