[sparkydog]

The top of the strut housing or tower or whatever you want to call the thing on the body that the strut bolts to is what needs to go lower by 3-4" in order for the Porsche hood to close. So I could hillbilly my solution by just sectioning the strut tower and dropping it and re-welding it. However the next problem would be that the (stock) strut would bottom out either at ride height or slightly compressed because the rod would be 3-4" deeper in it's travel.

Ride height is determined by the coil springs on a Mustang and the strut does two other things - dampen the springs and function as the upper pivot point of the spindles during turning. The location of the strut attach point also plays a part in the roll center and a bunch of other geometry stuff I barely understand. I would start out using the stock Mustang coil springs and cut coils or change springs as needed once the GM V8 is in. I would then buy a different PN strut so that it still has the correct travel in both directions but will fit into a tower that I shorten by 3-4". I will then have to carefully cut and re-weld the top of the strut tower (where the strut bolts to) so that it not only is lower in the engine bay but is also still on the same travel axis that it was before I cut it out. This should preserve the geometry. If I dork it up then caster, camber and roll center will all be screwed.