I have checked the switch as requested and just so you know, yes the colors all match on my harness so everything you say makes sense. If I don't quote something from your instructions it means that it worked. I did have some variations though. Here are the results:
Red meter lead on purple wire and black lead on dark green with switch in neutral. Supposed to be no ohms. --- I am using the 20k setting on ohms and coming up 0.85 ohms. Not sure if this is close enough to zero or if it is an issue.
You should be using the lowest scale that you get a reading on. Are you using an analog meter with a needle or a digital meter? You should be seeing enough resistance that the bulb won't light. I would expect no reading. Then when you move the switch lever to right turn you should get continuity or very low ohms.
Red lead on purple, black lead on yellow with switch in neutral. Supposed to be no reading -- I am getting 0.84 or 0.85 ohms.
Same thing here on left turn.
Red lead on brown, TS in neutral, hazard out. Touch black lead to the four turn wires. Supposed to be no reading. -- I am getting .04 ohms on each wire.
Does your hazard switch turn on the lights when pulled or pushed in? If when pulled you should get continuity on all four wires, Low ohms on lowest scale. They should have continuity to each other as well because the switch connects all of them to the brown hazard wire.
Just for kicks: Red lead to yellow wire and black lead to the other three wires (DB, LB, DG).
This was done bypassing the switch and tested where the harness connects to the TS coupling LB and DB had no reading, but DG shows continuity (0 ohms). I believe this is a problem.
If both wires Y and DG, were shorted to ground and You checked between them for continuity you would get zero ohms, so yeah this is a problem.
I have traced back the yellow and green wires from the harness back to where they split right and left and I can see no place these wires are touching each other. How else could they show 0 ohms?
see previous.
Did you check the harness from the front and slong the frame rail for a clamp pinching or grounding the two wires?
Side note: I had printed out some test instruction that I could have sworn were from VV but looking back on this thread it must be another 68 -72 C10 forum post. Here are the two tests I ran and the results were the same:
With the switch disconnected and the battery connected, jump the purple wire and the yellow and light blue (2nd test was purple jumpered to DG and DB) and turn the key on. The left/right marker and indicator lights should blink.
Nope. The Turn signal fuse popped both times I tried this.
Incidentally, all of the tests I ran on the TS switch for left and right turn seem to work according to the multi-meter. I don't think it's the switch. Something more difficult....of course.
