Quote:
Originally Posted by zachste
You're saying the blue is the power wire? I thought it was power wire in back, tach in the front. After pulling it out from the connector, tried putting it back in and crimping. It actually fired right up, like a dummy I tried the multi meter while running and it died as soon as I grounded it. Started back up, but tried to rev it a tiny bit and it cut out and died. Started back up though. I seem to be causing more problems for myself here. Wiring tends to be out of my wheel house. Unless it's just a bad connection on the batt side.
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Good catch. OK you got me, I was just shooting from memory, I should've double checked. Looking at RichardJ's post #22, the correct orientation is shown.
But intermittent on the Tach line shouldn't have affected ignition. That's what threw me off.
By ''wheel house'' do you mean the engine bay, at the bulkhead terminal block? Or the cab. [Kind of a salty nautical handle for a truck cab if it is. lol]
I'm referring to pulling a tap off the inside-cab fuse block. Just easier to get to.
Yes, a female terminal taps into a recessed positive terminal in the fuse block.
Without getting obsessively technical-- the 20 ga. Orange/White/Purple wire coming out of the bulkhead connector on the drivers side firewall, feeds nominal 12 VDC at start, then, being a resistance wire, increases resistance as it heats up and cuts down to 9 - 7 VDC, to keep from burning up the points. HEI modules fed voltages under 12 VDC heat up and fail. At the other end of the resistance wire it splits into two 20 ga Yellow lines, one to the Coil positive terminal and the other to the starter. No longer needed in the HEI system.