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dsraven · 04-11-2018, 02:41 PM

things to ponder
-a v8 will give you the power you need but the rpm will stay the same at the given speed unless you swap out the rear end gears, the whole rear end, install an overdrive behind the trans or install an overdrive transmission.
-if you swap the engine you may want to also swap to a larger rad or one with another row of core tubes because it will likely make more heat than the stock 6. the original rad is likely in need of a flush either way, even if you don't do the engine swap
-if you were to do a swap you also need to factor in some cash for an exhaust system, rad hoses, the mounts that ogre talks about, some throttle linkage and choke cable linkage, a bit of wiring change ups including a starter button or new ign switch if you want the deluxe swap, depending on what your donor is from and how much can be used from the donor vehicle.
-along with that, think about driving down the road with single system brakes. that means the master cylinder has only one circuit to run all the brakes. if a hose ruptures or whatever happens then you lose ALL the brakes except the park brake, if that operates. with a trailer behind that could be bad news.
I suggest to do a complete and thorough run through of what you actually have and what you need to fix, if anything, to make it feasible to drive down the highway at 60 mph with a trailer behind you. check (or have a shop check) the front end properly by putting it up on blocks under the axle so you can check the kingpins without load on them, the tie rods and drag link, steering box, the brakes, hoses and lines, etc. next block it up under the frame so the suspension is hanging and check all the springs, spring pins and bushings/mounts and shocks, body mounts, deck mounts, floor etc. look for cracks in the frame and cross members, loose rivets, bent parts etc. check wiring, operation of all the accesories like window cranks and door latches, wiper motor, heater and fan, seat mechanicals and comfort, glass etc. then check the body for the usual rusty spots (it looks great in the pic but take a close look, be critical). make a list and go from there. there are kits available for power brakes and steering which would make it more fun to drive. end of the day it's your truck, and do what you like, but be safe with it. there's a whole lot of other people driving on the same roads who expect other drivers to be using something roadworthy.
how much weight do you plan to tow, what configuration of trailer, does it have operational brakes? do you see yourself backing the trailer around with standard steering?

04-11-2018, 02:41 PM	#9
dsraven Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: calgary alberta Posts: 7,823	Re: 58 engine swap, six to eight... things to ponder -a v8 will give you the power you need but the rpm will stay the same at the given speed unless you swap out the rear end gears, the whole rear end, install an overdrive behind the trans or install an overdrive transmission. -if you swap the engine you may want to also swap to a larger rad or one with another row of core tubes because it will likely make more heat than the stock 6. the original rad is likely in need of a flush either way, even if you don't do the engine swap -if you were to do a swap you also need to factor in some cash for an exhaust system, rad hoses, the mounts that ogre talks about, some throttle linkage and choke cable linkage, a bit of wiring change ups including a starter button or new ign switch if you want the deluxe swap, depending on what your donor is from and how much can be used from the donor vehicle. -along with that, think about driving down the road with single system brakes. that means the master cylinder has only one circuit to run all the brakes. if a hose ruptures or whatever happens then you lose ALL the brakes except the park brake, if that operates. with a trailer behind that could be bad news. I suggest to do a complete and thorough run through of what you actually have and what you need to fix, if anything, to make it feasible to drive down the highway at 60 mph with a trailer behind you. check (or have a shop check) the front end properly by putting it up on blocks under the axle so you can check the kingpins without load on them, the tie rods and drag link, steering box, the brakes, hoses and lines, etc. next block it up under the frame so the suspension is hanging and check all the springs, spring pins and bushings/mounts and shocks, body mounts, deck mounts, floor etc. look for cracks in the frame and cross members, loose rivets, bent parts etc. check wiring, operation of all the accesories like window cranks and door latches, wiper motor, heater and fan, seat mechanicals and comfort, glass etc. then check the body for the usual rusty spots (it looks great in the pic but take a close look, be critical). make a list and go from there. there are kits available for power brakes and steering which would make it more fun to drive. end of the day it's your truck, and do what you like, but be safe with it. there's a whole lot of other people driving on the same roads who expect other drivers to be using something roadworthy. how much weight do you plan to tow, what configuration of trailer, does it have operational brakes? do you see yourself backing the trailer around with standard steering?