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Old 01-19-2011, 11:44 PM   #4
ray_mcavoy
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sherman, ME
Posts: 2,354
Re: Removing Cab Trim (and side moldings)

Yup, unbolt the corner pieces and then remove the middle cab piece. Early years use a 3/8" nut. Later years are 10mm. As an alternative to sliding it off, you can also lift up on it and gently pull out the top to unhook it from the clips.

As for the side trim, the front fender pieces are held on by stud-clips that go through holes in the fenders and are secured with nuts on the inside. I think you might have to take the fenders off in order to gain access to some of the nuts. And if you don't intend to re-install the moldings, there'll be quite a few holes to weld shut.

The door moldings are held on mostly with adhesive backed clips. They can be removed by carefully sliding a putty knife or similar tool in between the trim & door. Don't use the putty knife to pry the molding off ... instead, use it to cut through the adhesive patches on the clips. In addition to the adhesive clips, the door molding also has a screw at the front and a stud-clip at the rear. The acorn style nuts holding the stud-clips are easily accessible at the back edge of the door.

The cab side moldings are held on with stud-clips just like the front fender trim. The nuts are accessible by reaching down inside the cab corners but a couple of them are rather hard to reach.

The bedside moldings are held on mostly with adhesive backed clips like the door moldings. A few locations have snap-in clips that have to be pried out of the holes. And there are a coule of stud-clips at the front/back of the wheel opening with nuts accessible from inside the wheel well area.

The tailgate moldings are also mostly adhesive clips. The outer ends have stud-clips (top) and snap-in clips (bottom).
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