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72stepside327 · 03-21-2010, 09:42 AM

Oh, OK Neba. I misunderstood you.

You're saying basically that your alternator won't charge your battery if you do the dash switch unless you run the extra wire to pin #5 in the dash clip? That's pretty weird considering the alt/ hotwire is spliced into the battery positive wire run from the passenger side fender to just below the voltage regulator.

However, mine is now installed and doesn't seem to be hurting anything, so I'll leave it be just in case!

I actually have the book with the "factory" wiring diagrams, and I'm telling you the way this gauge is hooked up makes no sense whatsoever. Basically you have two hot wires run right into the dash clip at pins #1 & #12. One goes to the battery positive wire fender bolt, the other is from the alternator hotwire spliced together in a 5-wire splice by the voltage regulator.

Here's a poll question:

Does anyone have, or has anyone ever seen one of these factory gauges that actually works?

Fixit, I'd be interested to hear from you regarding the shunt system wiring from the old Chevy II's. Maybe there is a way to use that wiring scheme to properly wire these C-10 battery gauges.

03-21-2010, 09:42 AM	#15
72stepside327 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Archer City, Texas Posts: 11	Re: Battery/amp gauge Oh, OK Neba. I misunderstood you. You're saying basically that your alternator won't charge your battery if you do the dash switch unless you run the extra wire to pin #5 in the dash clip? That's pretty weird considering the alt/ hotwire is spliced into the battery positive wire run from the passenger side fender to just below the voltage regulator. However, mine is now installed and doesn't seem to be hurting anything, so I'll leave it be just in case! I actually have the book with the "factory" wiring diagrams, and I'm telling you the way this gauge is hooked up makes no sense whatsoever. Basically you have two hot wires run right into the dash clip at pins #1 & #12. One goes to the battery positive wire fender bolt, the other is from the alternator hotwire spliced together in a 5-wire splice by the voltage regulator. Here's a poll question: Does anyone have, or has anyone ever seen one of these factory gauges that actually works? Fixit, I'd be interested to hear from you regarding the shunt system wiring from the old Chevy II's. Maybe there is a way to use that wiring scheme to properly wire these C-10 battery gauges.