[72stepside327]

Thanks Vette.

The diagram of the old shunt system makes sense to me, whereas the original factory diagram for the C-10 does not. Also, your diagram lacks a voltage regulator, which is critical in the C-10 setup.

It seems that the C-10 guage is probably designed to work the same way, but minus the grounded shunt.

It seems the charging problem stems from the brown wire change-over on the gauge dashes. Basically, there is nowhere for it to go on the new setup. I cut mine off, but then retied back into it and pinned it at #5 in the dash clip, which may not be helpful at all.

I already have a brown wire from the voltage regulator (circuit #25) to the firewall sandwich plug. On the inside firewall plug, there are 2 twinned brown wires. One (brwn/wht) runs to the ignition clip and is twinned with a larger brown wire that runs to the fusebox (4A). The other is now the one I have at pin #5 in the dash clip.

So where are you saying to hook up the original brown wire (old gen. light) from #8 (idiot light) pin in the new gauge system? Are you saying solder in a resistor to this wire and run it back to the voltage regulator (twin it with brown #25?) instead of pin #5 in the dash clip?

Also, one thing I noticed in the C-10 as well as the old shunt-style diagram is the "fusible link" on the charging wire running from the 5-wire splice to the batt. positive connection on the passenger fender. The wire I have is simply a 12g solid red wire (spliced with a butt-connector) -no fuse, links, shunts, etc. I thought this "fusible link" simply meant an inline fuse was recommended here.